a trip with brother, Chandragutti-2

...continued from a trip with brother, Chandragutti-1.

We had trekked almost two hours in still air in the uphill path passing through the jungles on Chandragutti hill. The experience had sapped our energy. And suddenly we were out in the open, exposed to blazing sunlight and to the heat radiating from the rocks. The hilltop today was a contrast of what I'd seen in Oct 2011. It was grey-green and fresh then, today it's grey-pale-yellow and parched. One thing is common though, the constant breeze.

Deepak going around the big water tank. In the background is the jungle we trekked through to come here. Beyond the hill & jungle are farmlands and villages.

Deepak's view of the water-tank. I wonder if this tank was ever filled to the brim. Even if it's thrr-fourth full anyone swimming in it may have had a difficult time climbing out without help. Perhaps, a rope was left hanging into the tank as an aide to climb out.

This part of the fort is the core of Chandragutti fort. I guess this was where the commander stationed. Perhaps this structure was the commander's residence & office. The condition of this structure was really good back in 2011. I was saddened to see the damaged wall. I feel this damage is a result of vandalization. Possibly someone must've dislodged a block or two trying to locate hidden treasure.

Another water-tank next to the commander's office. This one is friendlier compared to the big tank. At the opposite end are steps descending into the water. Green water indicates deep water.. surely this is deep but also there's a lot of moss in it. Maybe it isn't safe enough to drink. In the past, water tanks were maintained well. Usually fish and tortoises would be left in, they did the cleaning naturally.

From the other side of the tank. That plant was there last time too which means it's at least 15 years old, maybe much more older. On the rock surfaces around this tank and structure, one can see several etchings of an elephant and hulimane triangles. Hulimane literally means tiger's home. It's an ancient game played by two people, one representing a tiger and other sheep. Obviously the tiger will prey on the sheep and the sheep have to evade the tiger or be eaten.

About a hundred meters from the water tank is that boulder which marks the end of the trail. Beyond that rock are sheer drops, down below are more jungles and paddy fields. There's place to sit around the boulder but at noon one can't expect much shade. The two canines had gone ahead and found a shady spot to rest.

That's Deepak close to the edge. On to his left was a small shelter good enough for one person to sit comfortably. This is a great great sunset spot.. west is slightly to the right, we are looking towards the south-south-west.

This wall descends dangerously to the very edge. I wonder how this wall was constructed. Those guys were undoubtedly brave and strong. Also look at the wall, it's solid. It's wide enough for a person to walk over it but anyone trying that should be daring enough or foolish enough. I guess many haven't tried it and that's the reason it has been left alone.

After going around the boulder, we came back to the eastern side, the shade was wider here. Deepak decided to go horizontal. I parked myself on a stone block placed there like a seat. Our canine friends were resting across the small water-tank next to us.

There they are, lying down in the shade. The white one was staring into the water. I guess some insect or frog had caught it's attention. The dog's expression was like... can I catch it, will it taste nice. After a while it lost interest and decided to nap.

I decided to go around a bit, the dogs followed me. Deepak launched his DJI Mini2. Luckily at the time it wasn't too breezy. Wind is kind of unpredictable, it blows in sudden powerful bursts. This is one of the few ariel shots captured by DJI Mini 2.

Sun was beating down fiercely, it was difficult to be in the open for more than 10 minutes. I headed back to the boulder. We ate some peanut candy and drank water. We felt bad for not having anything the dogs could eat. Also we would be hungry and running low on water. We decided to start our return trek. One last look at the boulder... don't know if I'll ever come here again. Whoever that person Bujji is... that person has written his name next to the hulimane etching. Around this spot we heard a buzz high above us. It took a couple of seconds for us to realize that it was a passing bee-swarm. We froze for a moment and then relaxed knowing they wouldn't attack with provocation. The buzz faded away... Oh that sound was a treat to my ears!

At the collapsed gateway, we did not take the dirt slope, it was too risky. It would be easier to clamber down the heap of boulders. That's me making my way through the branches and stones.

Another view of the ruins. Even the canines took the same way. It's easier for them since they are much lighter and their center of gravity is much lower. With four limbs they are like 4WD vehicles. With the toughest bit behind us, our descent was rapid, no long breaks.

At one spot we heard a strange call, we were unable to find the source. We stopped and looked carefuly, we found a small group of monkeys. They were kind of restless, as if they had sensed danger close by. Our canine friends stayed with us through the trek, they would either lead us or follow us, stopped when we stopped. We were really touched by their behavior. As soon as we reached the temple, our canine friends left us and went out of sight. We were tired, thirsty and hungry. We spotted a water tank, thankfully it was filled. The cool water wash was refreshing. We refilled our water bottles and headed to the car.

At the exit of the temple parking area was a shop. We stopped to inquire for a khanawali. The shopkeeper said there were hotels which served meals... chapati, curry, rice, etc. After that meal, it would be difficult to travel since we wanted to reach Bhadravati by sunset. The shop had snacks, ice-cream and buttermilk. We opted for snacks and settled at the shop for a while downing several ice-cream cups and buttermilk sachets. Thirst and hunger quenched, we were recharged. We started our journey towards Bhadravati via Shivamogga. It was around 7-45 PM when we checked into a hotel in Bhadravati. The plan for the following day was to see Paper Town, our street, our home and our school... a trip with brother, Bhadravati & Kumathi.

.........

a trip with brother, Chandragutti-1

It had been more than two years since I'd seen my brother. He was home for a vacation and we had planned a get-together at Dharwad. Besides spending a few days at Dharwad, we planned a tour. The original plan was to spend a day at Bhadravati, then go to Kumathi and lastly Hampi. Bhadravati is where we spent our early years. Deepak wanted to see the town, the house we lived in and the school we went there. Close to Kumathi are two prehistoric sites. Deepak wanted to see one of them- the two anthropomorphic statues. Hampi was my idea, I wanted him to see some of the rarely seen spots in and around Hampi. During one of our chats, the hill-jungle-fort Chandragutti was spoken of and Deepak was interested in it. The route was frozen- Dharwad to Chandragutti - Bhadravati - Kumati - Hampi - Dharwad.

Jan 27, 2025. We left home by 5-45 AM, heading towards Tadas cross on NH48. At Tadas cross we left NH48 and took the road towards Mundgod. The curvy road flanked by greenery was a treat to our eyes. Around 7 AM we noticed a large waterbody to our right, it looked like a good spot to stretch out a bit.

The fresh air worked up an appetite. We had home-packed breakfast of bread, tomato curry and boiled eggs. We resumed the journey, driving nonstop through forest area, open fields, villages & towns until we reached Chandragutti. We went straight to Renukadevi Devastana, parked the Brio at a spot where we expected shade. This was my second visit here.. I was trying to recollect the memories of Oct 8th 2011. I could recall the row of little shops selling flowers, fruits, coconuts and other things needed for the temple rituals. We wore our camera loaded bags and commenced the trek.

A board planted close to the temple outlined the history: Chandragutti, (Chandraguptapura of ancient times) was a stronghold of the Kadambas of Banavasi (third-sixth centuries A.D.), In an inscription dated A.D. 1396 of the reign of Vijayanagara king Harihara II (A.D. 1377-1404), Bachanna, a local chieftain claims to have ruled over Chandragutti later the area was under the Keladi Nayakas.
The Renukadevi temple situated on the summit of an elevated spot and is a large natural cave approached by a flight of steps enshrining a small masked Sivalinga. The place has been associated with saint Jamadagni and his wife Renuka. The colossal hip like boulders in the cave are identified as Renuka in hiding when Parashurama pursued her. The outer facade of the cave forms the vestibule, which is in the Chalukyan style. A pillared hall was added the during Viiayanagara period. Almost at the foot of the Renukamba temple facing west is a temple of Bhairava.

Our destination was the fort so we took the path bypassing the temple slightly. Anybody taking the main staircase to the temple must be barefoot, the alternate is the roundabout path which we took. Even on the path we took there were couple of minor shrines, one is Bairava Gudi, I think. The path we treaded is an ancient one, made of rough-cut stones. Walking barefoot or with slippers can be difficult here, even with shoes we had to be watchful of every step. We reached a steep flight of steps which led to the side of Renuka temple. The path to the fort started from a fork there. I was confused like before, we did a bit of back and forth before taking the right path. The first major landmark were the shallow pond and the gateway in the outer fort walls. In those few minutes two dogs had latched on to us, they would follow us, and lead us at times.

This is the narrow passage in the fort wall. In the background the pond can be seen. Out fur legged friends were sniffing intensely on the shore but rejoined us as we went ahead. The stony path seen here is the ancient one. During rains this place will be maze of crisscrossing streams, water can wash away open soil. I guess that's the reason for paving this part with stones. One thing I was clear about was about the sharp right turn down this path. During the previous visit, it was an effortless climb as though I was guided by some unseen force. That afternoon, weather was pleasant, the hill wore a fresh green look, soil was damp and soft. This time it was a contrast.. dry and warm.

Around 10-30 we passed through a gateway in the inner ring of fortification. We found a shady spot and stopped for a break. From the spot we could see the fortified summit. While I and the two canines rested, Deepak launched his DJI Mini2 for a couple of minutes.

Our destination is just behind those walls up there.

We moved on. This spot is just below the third gateway, a flat open spot. I guess this was a major checkpoint.

A ruined lies neglected on the side of the opening. Not just neglected, it seems to be vandalized on a regular basis. However, it has managed to survive.

The entrance to this opening is just behind the rock, it's a naturally curved path.

In the background is the cannon spot. Deepak and the canines stand camouflaged in the shade. While we sipped water we were concerned about our friends. We poured a little water in a concave surface on one of the stones but our friends didn't bother to have it. May not be thirsty.

The gateway seen from the shady spot. I recall leaving my sandals at this gateway and continuing barefoot. While trekking, it's either barefoot or a pair of thick-soled shoes. Nothing in between works.

Unlike other historical spots, we cannot see any kind of maintenance here. Vegetation is taking over many structures here. Do check out the blog post of 2011 to see the place back then- Chandragutti fort.

In this picture, to the left is a walled water-tank and a stone trough. That trough is surely for horses and cattle. Maybe military had elephants too. During my last visit, the water tank was free of vegetation. This time, the inner space of the tank was filled with small trees and bushes.

Further on, I was expecting another gateway but to my shock it was a huge pile of boulders. The entire structure had collapsed. It was a beautiful gateway, a passage between two high walls. This sight saddened me. I wonder if treasure seekers vandalized a part of the gateway leading to its collapse. We bypassed the pile and clambered up a rather steep stretch. It was so steep that descending it would be too risky.

That's where we reached after the steep ascent. Had we passed through the gateway, we would've come to a narrow hairpin like curve. I remember running into a herd of cows during my previous visit. They were returning home after grazing up here. From here the end of the trail is not far, maybe ten minutes away.

That's the highest point of the trail but not the end.

View from that high point. We made way through the jungle seen below... fortifications, gateways and all.

It was almost noon. We had climbed two hours. Back in 2011, I had reached the end of the trail in 45 minutes. Yeah, it was literally a nonstop trek. I'd started around 4 PM, with just two and half hours daylight, I hadn't the luxury of taking breaks.

From the above view, panning to the right, the ruins come into sight.. water tanks, shelters and walls. Right ahead of me is the largest water tank here. It's pretty deep!

Panning more to the right.. another shelter and water tank. This one is smaller but deep enough to drown a adult man.

Last time here the water level was higher and, a cow was floating in it. I guess the poor little creature must've slipped and fallen in. Surely there was no way for it climb out. I still remember hearing thunder in distance but I wasn't afraid somehow. One of the most unforgettable treks of my life.

Deepak and head down towards the ruins without having to worry about time. In fact, we would need a nice break from the blazing sunlight. I'll continue this story in the following post.. a trip with brother, Chandragutti-2.

.........

Golconda fort, part-3

...continued from Golconda fort, part-2.

In the previous parts we got to see Golconda fort's main entrance known by the name Bala Hissar Darwaza. The tour begins from Bala Hissar portico which is known as the clapping portico, a proper clap from here can be heard at the summit which is 200 meters away. From the portico, tourists can take two routes, clockwise and anticlockwise. The advisable route is anticlockwise since you get to ascend via a less inclined face of Golconda hill and descend by a rather steep flight of steps which will seem  like a daunting task to most tourists. During my four visits, I've taken the anticlockwise route which first passes by military barracks & Akkanna Madanna offices. The path starts ascending passing by a water tank, Ramadasa prison, Ambarkhana, Sri Jagadamba Mahakali Mandir and lastly the Baradari at the summit. In between there are several unnamed bastions, turrets and buildings. The other path starts at a gateway and descends steeply. The flight of steps when seen from a side looks like a bridge supported on a dozen massive columns. This route was probably used as an escape route, not on a daily basis. As the path touches ground level, you enter a sprawling complex of walls, columns, arches, domes and courtyards.

These 30' walls have inbuilt water supply pipelines. Also I remember seeing wooden beams embedded into the walls, probably they are remains of a wooden staircase. Going by the height of these walls, this seems to be a multistoried palace. Probably the upper floor was wooden, so was the roof. I feel this was the Zanana, the harem building.

From the Zanana ruins we move towards another cluster of ruins which might've been royal living quarters- Rani Mahal & Dad Mahal.

Stucco artwork decor walls of a royal space. I think this coat of beige paint is recent. The original might've been colorfully painted.

One of the courtyards. In the middle there's a rectangular pit, may be a fresh water pool.

Here we have half columns. Looks like on top of the half columns stood wooden columns which in turn supported the roof. Originally all these structures- columns, arches, walls -were plastered and had a smooth shiny surface so that the interior is bright.

Now we are in the largest courtyard, as I remember. At the center is the dodecagonal stepped pool with a fountain at its center. The floral fountain seems like an alloy casting, maybe brass. This picture can't do justice this wonderful piece of art. Neither the caretakers of Golconda have done much to keep it presentable. That rubber hose dangling on it is an eyesore. This fountain was in a much better condiion during my first visit i.e. before Y2K.

We exit the palace complex and step into an open space with another view of the ruins atop the hill.

Adjoining the palace complex is an open space, maybe this was a garden once upon a time. On the western side of the space is Taramati mosque. Taramati was a dancing girl and courtesan during the seventh sultan Abdullah Qutub Shah's time. There was another girl names Premamati. It is said that both were ravishingly beautiful and often dance on ropes tied between their pavilion and the sultan's balcony.

The mosque has some delicate stucco work on its crown.

Taramati & Premamati were so close to the sultan that tombs were built over their graves which is within the Qutb Shahi Necropolis near Golconda fort. Also there's another grand structure called Taramati Baradari built on a hillock situated two kilometers away from Golconda.

Moving on, next we have a two-story structure which might've been the Nakkar Khana, the place where drums and other percussion instruments were played. It was also called as Naubat Khana.

The other side of the structure. In the background are several older structures which are part of the fortifications.

The cloudy weather of that morning was humid as well. Also with the heat radiating off these stone structures, we were tired and ended the tour.

The following picture was shot from a road passing next to the fort boundary. I think we shot this while on the way to Taramati Baradari.

Back at the parking area we inquired about the ancient Baobab tree here. We learnt that the tree was inside Naya Qila, a couple of kilometers away. We hired an autorickshaw to reach this living heritage of Hyderabad known as Hathiyan ka Jhad meaning elephant-tree. It's called so because the tree bark resembles elephant hide. This Baobab is said to be 400+ years old. A caretaker incharge of this tree told us about the hollow space in the trunk which is large enough to hold 40 men.

Besides this Baobab is a mosque known as Mulla Khayalis Masjid. It was built in the year 1569 CE by Mulla Khayali a noted courtier poet and well-known calligraphist who flourished during the reign of Sultan Ibrahim Qutub Shah.

With this we complete our tour of Golconda for the day. A few months later we visited the Qutb Shahi tombs and spent a couple of hours seeing the place in detail.

.........