ancient temples of Dharwad district

Dharwad was one of the largest districts of Karnataka until it was trifurcated in 1997, that's when Gadag and Haveri districts came into being. Dharwad being reduced to almost one third its original size had to give away a lot of historical monuments like temples, stepped wells, mantapas & inscriptions to the two new districts. Yet, within the present boundaries of Dharwad districts are several dozen ancient shrines out of which eight prominent temples have been listed here.

Someshwara Gudi, Dharwad: The temple is situated in the southeastern corner of Dharwad, in a shallow valley. One of the online sources say that Someshwara Gudi was built in the X Century by a king of Alupa dynasty. Later it was renovated in the XV Century by Vijayanagara King Immadi Devaraya. Presently the temple exterior is not even close its original form but the interiors seem to be well preserved. The main doorframe, Ranga Mantapa columns, Garbhagudi doorframe, the main deity Shiva Linga and Nandi - all are original sculptures. Opposite the temple is a stepped well. Despite its long history, this temple doesn't seem to be a protected monument. 

About half a kilometer away towards the east is Shalmala Ugamanasthala, the birth place of river Shalmala. A small shrine over the spring, the spring water collects into a large tank before flowing away and going underground and resurfaces somewhere in the western ghats.

Banashankari Devastana, Amargol: This protected monument, because of it's sandstone looks, feels as though it was plucked out from Badami or Aihole and planted here. That's just an imagination but it is a Chalukyan monument. According to ASI, this temple east facing Dwikutachala was built in the XI or XII Century. An inscription dated 1120 CE found here states that Saudhore Jakkarasa built it with Kesava and Bhairava as deities. Presently Bhairava idol housed in one of the sanctums is damaged, and the other sanctum has a Shiva Linga. Reaching this temple is easy since it is situated in Amargol village which is off Dharwad-Hubballi road.

Chandramouleshwara Gudi, Unkal: Here's another Chalukyan beauty. The temple design is unique with four entrances, each aligned to the four cardinal directions- east, west, north & south. Then you step inside the temple, you get to see a central Garbhagudi with four doors, each aligned to the four entrances of the temple. Now, coming to the deity, it's a four-faced Shiva Linga. The temple design emanates from the deity's form. Apart from it's unique deity and interior, the temple exterior is aptly decorated with geometric and floral patterns. One could easily spend an hour admiring this marvelous temple which is situated in Unkal village in Hubballi.

Bhavani Shankar Gudi, Old Hubballi: This is the only Trikutachala, and also the best preserved ancient structure in Dharwad district. This too an east-facing temple, it's main sanctum is open towards the easterly direction. The main sanctum is dedicated to Bhavani Shankar, the south-facing sanctum is dedicated to Sriman Narayana and the north-facing sanctum is dedicated to Ganesha. This temple has been restored by the ASI at some point of time. While planning a visit here one can also see Siddarooda Matha since they are situated close to each other.

Shambulingeshwar Gudi, Kundagol: This XI Century east-facing temple was created during Western Chalukyan rule. In plan this temple is star-shaped. The temple's 30+ turned pillared hall is a sight to behold. Originally, these pillars are turned to perfection with sharp edges, graceful curves and polished to mirror finish. Over the centuries, the mirrors have been vandalized however, one must be thankful that the temple have survived in the present state. Apparently, a lightning struck this temple hence a part of the stone canopy has broken. Kundagol is about 15 km from NH48.

Kalmeshwara Gudi, Kamadhenu: Kamadhenu village is situated off Hubballi-Kalghatgi highway. The north-east facing temple is at the southern tip of the little village. The structure is made of soapstone. The temple's Sabha Mantapa, a large pillared hall with Sukhanasi around its perimeter can be entered by three entrances. All pillars in the Sabha Mantapa are fluted. The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva Linga and a Nandi idol sits opposite the sanctum. The temple's Shikhara is a pyramidal structure. Going its design, it seems like was built during the Western Chalukyan times.

Basavanna Gudi, Tambur: Nestled in the Devikoppa forest is Tambur which is popular for Basavanna Gudi. The ancient temple is seems like it was built during the Chalukyan times, probably in the XII Century. This east-facing temple is fully enclosed and had two entrances. The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva Linga and a Nandi idol sits at the opposite of the temple i.e. just in front of the eastern entrance. Within the temple site is a collection of ancient sculptures including a number of memorial stones with Kannada inscription. Tambur is about 45 km from Dharwad and 30 km from Hubballi.

Amruteshwara Gudi, Annigeri: Amruteshwara can be called as the largest ancient temple in Dharwad district. It was built in the XI Century CE by Kalyani Chalukyan rulers. Like Tambur Basavanna Gudi, this temple too is east-facing and has two entrances. The structure is made of soapstone, it has 76 pillars and its walls are covered with sculptures of characters from Hindu legends. Amruteshwara temple is said to be the prototype for Itagi Mahadeva in Koppal district. Withi in the premises of the temple are three inscription slabs. The temple has a nice open space around which is enclosed by a wide fort-like stone wall. Annigeri was a place of great importance once upon a time. Besides Amruteshwara gudi there are six other ancient shrines namely- Banashankari Gudi, Gajina Basappa Gudi, Hire Hanuman Gudi, Kambada Hanuman Gudi, Puradeeshwara Gudi and  Ramalinga Gudi

Here's a map with these temples marked. Hoping this helps anyone planning a tour of these temples.

 

This post speaks only about temples. To see the post covering all places of interest, check out the main article What to see in Dharwad district.

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Kalmeshwara Devastana, Kamadhenu

Kalmeshwara Gudi remained unknown until I heard about it on Oct 28th from Vijay Menon my friend from Thane. The place is just 35 km from Dharwad and I was ignorant of it. Now, since it has been discovered, it's time to visit Kamadhenu.

Dec 1, 2024. Pushp and I left home around 9 AM. The 33 km journey took an hour to cover due to bad patches and road construction. Dharwad-Kalghatgi always has had rough patches, traveling hasn't been pleasant experience for decades. Finding the temple was easy, it's situated at the southern tip of the inverted isosceles shaped village. Beyond the village is a vast expanse of black-soil fields. There's ample open space around the temple but however the space was being temporarily used to store grain filled bags. Here's a side view of Kalmeshwara Gudi, a north-east facing one sanctum temple dedicated to Shiva Linga & Nandi.

Next to the temple are two inscription slabs. I'm not sure if the inscriptions and the temple are of the same time period. There could be a difference of few decades if not a century or two. I asked the Archaka if he had historical information. No, but he mentioned that it was written on the larger slab. I cannot really read the script, I had to leave it there.

A closer look at the larger inscription slab head. It seems like a Chalukyan time inscription.

This is the front view of Kalmeshwara Gudi. It has three entrances, one in the front and one each on it's northern and southern sides. On the front are bags of agricultural produce. They seem to be market ready, probably waiting for the best rate. I wish these farmers earn well, appropriate for their efforts.

The rear side view. The temple external walls are quite simple but elegant. The Shikhara is a pyramidal form. Going by the Shikhara design, this could be a temple built during Kadamba times or by a late descendant of Kadamba dynasty. The temple's open hall's roof has been renovated quite recently. Roof stone slabs have been replaced by concrete slab. Hoping the work is done after careful study of load bearing capacity of the columns.

This type of stone isn't available in and around Kamadhenu. It seems to be brought in from the Western ghats, maybe near Sirsi or Belagavi. The temple is well built for it to have survived those centuries. Despite it's heritage value, this isn't a ASI protected monument. I did not see any board as such. Also the Archaka confirmed that government hasn't placed any notice board here.

Where there's a Shivalaya there's a Bilva Patri tree. There's one tall here too. Leaning on the base of the Bilva tree is a beautiful idol of a Chaturbhuja Vishnu. At Vishnu's feet is Anjaneya. No idea why this idol has been kept outside the temple, in the open. The idol has qualities of Hoysala time sculptures.

Entering the temple through the side entrance. Directly ahead is idol of Nandi facing the sanctum.Apart from the roof repair, the temple floor is also has been renovated. Today being Amavasya, there was a regular flow of visitors with offerings to the deity.

Looking towards the eastern entrance. This Sabhamantapa, the meeting hall has a wide seating platform on three sides. At the center of the hall is Nandi. The eye-catching thing in this hall is the fluted pillars. All pillars are same except for the four pillars of the Nandi Mantapa.

This is the perforated wall separating the Sabha Mantapa and Antharala (vestibule connecting Sabha Mantapa and Garbhagudi.

A beautiful of idol of Nandi. The sculpture has features of Chalukyan Nandi idols.

Stepping into the Antharala. The vestibule itself has two sections, the sections separated by another perforated wall. On either ends of this sections, to the left and right, are several ancient idols. On the left are two idols of Ganesha, and one panel of Saptamatrika. Notice the while object? That's a large cylinder shaped Vibhuti.

Aum engraved on the cylinder side. Shivaya Namah Aum.

On the right end are three idols. One of them is Vishnu. I couldn't recognize the other two.

We had a good darshan of the deity- Kalmeshwara. We received prasada from the Archaka. We sat for a minute on the Sukanasi, the seating platform in the pillared hall. Having photographed the temple with a camera, I wanted to get a few aerial shots. I step out and launch DJI Mini 2.

This is the shot of the morning. An overhead view of the Shikhara.

Having discovered another ancient monument of Dharwad district, I'm sharing the names and links to other sites too. There are hundreds of ancient sites but what's listed here is the temples who have survived with their ancient structures with varying degree of reconditioning, repairs or renovation.

1. Someshwara Gudi, Dharwad
2. Banashankari Gudi, Amargol, between Dharwad & Hubballi
3. Chandramouleshwara Gudi, Unkal, Hubballi
4. Bhavani Shankar Gudi, Old Hubballi
5. Shambulingeshwar Gudi, Kundagol
6. Kalmeshwara Gudi, Kamadhenu
7. Basavanna Gudi, Tambur
8. Amruteshwara Gudi, Annigeri

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