Jun 26, 2021

Mallikarjuna Devastana, Chikka Malligwad

This little temple was discovered during our early morning cycle rides. Cycling in rural roads is more fun than city roads. So, we come towards Chikka Malagiwad often. During our third towards Chikka Malagiwad, Pushpa stopped at the temple and went in while I waited outside.

As I stood outside, this idol of Shiva Linga caught my attention. Going by its form, I felt this Shiva Linga is an ancient one. The multiple corners of the base is a feature seen in Chalukyan sculpture. Probably its anywhere between 800 years to 1000 years old.

This is the front side. The idol was fixed into the floor of the ancient shrine. For some reason the ancient idol was replaced with a new idol. However, the old idol is still being worshipped.

Besides the ancient Shivalinga idol, there's an old inscription slab which has been embedded into the wall. The slab is about a foot wide and three feet long. A part of the inscription is covered by a layer of lime.

The inscription is in Kannada. The letters are very close to present day Kannada. So I'm guessing the inscription is relatively new. Probably its about a donation to renovate the temple within the past 100 years.

Right besides the temple are two more ancient sculptures. This seems to be a pillar base or part of the sanctum threshold. The stone quality and the quality of the sculpture indicate its an ancient one. I think the temple was small but well made. The original structure either gave away to forces of nature or it was damaged intentionally. When the temple was rebuilt, the builders decided to exclude some of the original parts such as this and few others.

On the other side of the temple is the original idol of Nandi but its broken into two parts. I'm not sure if the idol was removed because it broke, or if the idol broke while it was being removed.

This is the replacement Nandi, smaller than the original.

The temple is kept clean and tidy. The priest is punctual with the morning ritual, at least the two times I happened to notice. On the side walls are two slokas. The artist put in extra effort to write the text in two colors. Nice work.

ಓಂ ಗಂಗಾಧರಾಯ ನಮಃ 
ಕು0ಕುಮ ಚಂದನ ಲೇಪಿತ ಲಿಂಗಮ 
ಪಂಕಜಹಾರ ಸುಶೋಭಿತ ಲಿಂಗಮ 
ಸುಚಿತ ಪಾಹ ಏನಾಶನ ಲಿಂಗಮ
ತತ್ ಪ್ರಣಮಾಮಿ ಸದಾಶಿವ ಲಿಂಗಮ್
ಓಂ ನಮಃ ಶಿವಾಯ
ತ್ರ್ಯಂಬಕಂ ಯಜಾಮಹೇ|
ಸುಗಂಧಿಂ ಪುಷ್ಪಿವರ್ಧನಂ||
ಉರ್ವಾರುಕವಿವ ಬಂದರ್ನಾ| 
ಮೃತ್ಯೋರ್ಮುಕ್ಷೀಯ ಮಾಮೃತಾತ್||

Chikka Malagiwad is about 10 km from our home but we don't take the shortest route, instead we take the route with least traffic even if it means negotiating uphill roads.

I think there are many more ancient shrines hidden in rural Dharwad. Truly the ancient rulers cared about the society, lot of funds were set aside for temples which were crucial to human settlements. I think people started and ended their days with visits to temples. Children learned to read and write at temples. Village meetings took place at temples, important decisions were taken in the presence of the Gods. Temples provided shelter to travelers as well. Wish there was a way to go back in time to see the ancient life.

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Jun 19, 2021

ancient temples of Hooli part-2

 ...continued from the ancient temples of Hooli part-1

In the previous part we covered Panchalingeshwara Devastana and Nandikeshwara Devastana. Now are are looking at three more shrines and a Dargah. I don't remember going near the Dargah but it seems like it was a temple originally.

On the way to the shrines we passed by this stepped water tank which was fed by an underground pipeline. I'm guessing this water tank is relatively new, probably made during the Maratha rule. around 500 years ago.

Ningappa wanted me to see this water spout shaped like a cow's head. The tank floor was thick with bushes, many thorny ones but that didn't deter Ningappa. He just went down and moved the long slender branches so that I can get this shot. Isn't it a beautiful creation. This reminds me of the elephant head sculpture inside a water tank at Gajendragad fort. I wish every taluq had a archaeological department responsible for monuments in that taluq. We have countless numbers of ancient monuments, maintaining them would have a positive effect on the younger generation, they are bound to feel good about our heritage.

Of the three temples, one is ancient. Sadly the stone pillars have been coated with lime which is harmful to stone. Hope in these ten years, the lime has been washed off. On the bigger of the green painted temple is called Shri Guru Siddananjeshwara Gudi. These shrines are ancient but the structures are new.

The temple is situated near a shallow cleft. On the rock formation are white marks which are caused by flowing water. This is one of the many waterfall spots of this hill range. After a good long rainfall, this spot would transform itself into a piece of paradise.

As seen from the unknown temple. The smooth stretch of slope leads to the fort. The stretch was covered with tractor tire skid marks.

Tractors with trailers are driven up here to haul stone from the fort ruins. No one to stop such people because the fort doesn't belongs to no one in particular. Do anything you want with public property - no one cares but a few people like us.

This is a collage of two photos merged into a collage with an attempt to show how the positions of the temples. Most temples on the slopes are seen here. The three shrines seen earlier are out of view in this picture. #1 is Nandikeshwara Devastana, #2 Banashankari Devastana, #3 unknown, #4 unknown, #5 Dakshina Kashi temple complex, #6 unknown and #7 Maralu Siddeshwara Devastana.

This is Banashankari temple. Its an ancient shrine with heavy makeup... lime, distemper, oil paint! People must realize that makeup is required only for cement plastered walls, stones are better off naturally. Anyway, the temple premises was clean and tidy. The big Ficus next to this temple was home to monkeys. The temple has lot of open space around it (see inset) which is used by village folk to sun dry their agricultural produce. And also for the temple fair.

These are temples #3 (right side) and #4 (left side), are east-facing. Temple #4 is in better condition. Temple #3 was a gambling and drinking den.

Nangappa on temple #4 steps flanked by balustrades which have been broken. Just like Nandikeshwara temple, parts of the roof are missing here. I can't remember if daily rituals were performed.

This piece of sculpture was found near Banashankari Devastana. I feel this belongs to temple #4, it's a part of the wall behind the backrest. This piece has three panels- a young woman, three identical pillars and a flower vase. Below the panels is a strip of flowers and at the base is a series of elephants.

A view through the main entrance. If I'm not mistaken this temple has a Sabha Mantapa, Natya Mantapa, Antharala and Garbhagudi. The space seen here between the entrance and the grand door frame is Sabha Mantapa, the meeting hall. The door seen here connects to the Natya Mantapa, the dance hall. Further inside is the vestibule which connects the Natya Mantapa and Garbhagudi. Sadly I didn't take closeups of the doorframe.

This is the I feel this temple was worth restoring. In fact Ningappa had mentioned that ASI had plans of restoring all temples and if that happened houses of the village needed to be relocated. However, the village is as it is. Going by Google Maps imagery temple #3 seems to be restored. 

This is the exterior of temple #3. The Nritya Mantapa floor had been damaged badly by treasure hunters. I think this temple has two or three sanctums.

This highly detailed sculpture is fixed over a passage to one of the Garbhagudis. Ningappa had urged me to see this temple for the sake of this sculpture.  

From the twin temples, we go to Dakshina Kashi temple complex, also called Kashi Vishwanatha group of temples, marked as #5. The temple complex is situated right next to the pond. The complex has three or four temples which seem to be of the built more or less the same time as Nandikeshwara or Panchalingeshwara temples.

This is a stepped gateway connecting the temple complex and the water pond. This is for the devotees to bathe in the pond and enter the complex to perform rituals. During our visit water level was low, hence it wasn't right up to the steps of the gateway.

While at Hooli fort Ningappa had suggested we visit Varavi Siddeshwara Kolla. Had we gone by foot, we had to walk 5 km one way. I regret disapproving the idea. Instead I opted to go by car, a 15 km drive one way. May be I'll plan a trip to Hooli, catch up with Ningappa and go for a trek. Because of the plan we decided to cut short Hooli trip. This is another temple in ruins we saw on the way back to the village. If there's a basket of places which had gained prominence during the Chalukyan times, Hooli would be in that basket.

Before we left Hooli, Ningappa took me to a potters studio. The potter family made water pots, decorative pots & vases and stoves as well. After a short stay we decided to move on to Varavi Siddeshwara.

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