Basava Smaraka, Basavana Bagewadi

The three most important places connected with life of Vishwa Guru Basavanna are-

• Bagewadi - place of birth, affectionately called Basavana Bagewadi
• Kudala Sangama - place of spiritual education and last days
• Kalyana - where Basavanna served as a minister and started the social revolution, now called Basava Kalyana

I'd visited Kalyana and Kudala Sangama almost two decades ago but somehow my travels never went through Bagewadi. My maternal uncles has told that Basava's descendents lived there and his house still existed.

Jan 29, 2016
Finally the day arrived. I and Pushpa drove to Bagewadi after a short visit to Muddebihal to check out its fort ruins. It was around 2 PM when we arrived at Bagewadi. First thing we found a Lingayath Khanawali and had Jolada Rotti Oota and then headed towards Basava's birthplace. I was hoping to see an ancient house but what I saw a modern structure. Government has replaced the ancient house with a modern memorial. How disappointing! Anyway.. since we are here, might as well see what's inside.

Basava Smaraka's dome towers over its locality. As per legends, this locality was known as Agrahara, place where Brahmin families resided. It is said that Madiraja was headman of Bagewadi then. Bagewadi was also known as Ingaleshwara Bagewadi then.

The care-taker was away for lunch time. A short wait and the young care-taker arrived and open up the gates and doors. So this building was inaugurated on May 16 2010 by Chief Minister B S Yeddyurappa. I asked the care-taker if there were any photographs of the original house. Answer was no :( At least the authorities can display one photo.

Inside its one single hall with a collection of statues of bronze and wall reliefs made of   wood, glass and granite. There works of art depict important moments of Basavan's life. The central item being the collection of 3 life-size statues of Guru Jatavedamuni, mother Madambike with infant Basava and father Madiraja. This is the happy moment after Guru Jatavedamuni awakens the infant from its sleep since the day of its birth. The parents are relieved to know their child was neither blind nor mute.

Around the hall are wall reliefs. Going in chronological order.

Mother Madalambika showing infant Basava in presence of his father Madiraja to their family Guru who is seen blessing the new born at their home which existed at this site. As per historic-legendary evidence Lord Basava was born on the most auspicious day of Akshaya Tritiya (the third day in the light fortnight of the Hindu month of Vaishakh).

Young Basava refusing to participate in Upanayana ceremony. His thinking was different. he believed in kindness to fellow creatures rather than follow customs and traditions blindly.

Young boy Basava  rushing towards Kundala Sangama with his sister Nagamma and her husband Shivadeva.

Guru Jatadevamuni initiating Basava's spiritual training at Sangameshwara Devastana.

Guru Jatadevamuni imparting knowledge to Basava in Akka Nagamma and Shivadeva's presence.

Basaveshwara composing and recording Vachanas.

Here's the care-taker, a knowledgeable young man. He could recite many Vachana's and quite formal in his speech, pure Kannada, no English words mixed.

While at Bagewadi, make sure to visit Basaveshwara Devalaya too.

Here are four places connected to Basaveshwara's close relatives, his two wives, sister and nephew-

• Gangambike Aikyasthala near Kittur
• Neelambike Aikyasthala near Kudala Sangama
• Akka Nagamma Aikyastala near Tarikere
• Channabasaveshwara Aikyasthala at Ulavi

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Haralayyana Paduke, Bijjanahalli

Haralayyana Paduke means Haralayya's slipper. Haralayya was a tanner by profession who lived in Kalyana, present day Basava Kalyana. He was a contemporary of Jagatjyoti Basaveshwara and King Bijjala. Haralayya and his wife Kalyanamma were part of the Sharana movement led by Basavanna. During one of the Sharana gatherings it so happened that Haralayya greeted Basvanna formally saying “Sharanu”  to which Basavanna responded “Sharanu Sharanarthi.” Haralayya was nonplussed by Basavanna's greeting, who was a close aide of Kalyana's ruler King Bijjala. Haralayya felt that he had committed a grave sin because he had let a great soul like Basava had respected lowly person. To free himself of the sin, Haralayya decided to make a pair of slippers from his own skin. Haralayya's wife Kalyanamma said she had an equal right, and she decided to join her husband in the ..don't know what to call it. The couple cut off patches of skin from their thighs, tanned it and made pair of slippers befitting a nobleman. When the shoes were presented to Basava, he was awestruck, touched his eyes to the slippers and placed them on his head. Basavanna said the slippers were divine, he could never think of wearing them and returned them to the couple. This story is from the XII Century CE.

Nearly 800 years later the slippers were rediscovered at Bijanahalli near Malked about 60 kms from Gulbarga. A small shrine has been built for the slippers. A few scientist tested samples taken from the slippers and confirmed they were made of human skin. Of all the ancient artifacts known, these slippers are unique.

I was curious to see those ancient slippers, my wait of 4 years came to an end on July 2, 2016.
Our journey from Hyderabad to Bijapur started early morning. Our first stop was at Sedam to see few ancient Hindu temples and a Jain Basadi. Next was Bijanahalli; as we approached Malkhed, on the highway, on the right is the arch of Bijjanahalli.

It's one straight road from this arch to the abode of Haralayyana Paduke; no forks in between. We reached Bijjanahalli around 11 AM; villagers were helpful; two youngsters lead us to the shrine, where two more joined. The boy in white school dress is Shivasharanappa - his family is in possession of Haralayya's slippers.

Shivasharanappa, Ramesh, Srinath and Ambarish

This is an artistic depiction of the scene where Haralayya & Kalyanamma present the slippers to Basavanna. Having learnt that the slippers were made of their own skin, Basavanna places them on his head out of respect. Two ladies flanking Basava are his wives Neelambike and Gangambike.

So this is the little shrine for this extraordinary pair of shoes. They are placed in a locked wood-glass case.

Rituals are performed everyday by Shivasharanappa's family.

As seen from the front..

..and from the side. Watch this video of Haralayyana Paduke to see clearer pictures of the shoes.

We thank our young friends for showing us the shrine and head back to Malkhed; we pass by Malkhed bus-stand which has an interesting theme.. modeled like a fort. Cheers to the architect who designed it and to the team who constructed it.

We head to our next destination Nagavi near Chittapur. Historical sources say that India's second university existed at Nagavi, the first one being Nalanda.

PS: I recently discovered a place called Sri Haraleshwara Kshetra in Vijayapura district. Going by the photos on Maps, it's a remote spot, like an oasis in a desert. There are a number of Neem trees, a natural spring, a shrine and an open hall for conducting events. It is said that Haralayya had stayed at this place and the well here dug by him always has water even in the peak of summers.

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