Mar 30, 2024

inscription-stone hunt at Bhogasandra

During the Dec 2023 visit to Bhogasandra, while at Kote Ranganatha Swami Devastana, our friend Sidramanna mentioned about the presence of an inscription stone outside the village. The only person who would be able to show me that artifact would be Sidramanna's uncle Eshanna. Since that was a busy month for coconut farmers here, we could not find a convenient time. Even on normal days Eshanna is busy, always on the move by foot from one plantation to another. With a bag full of tools and pipeline spare parts, Eshanna checks drip irrigation lines daily. Besides the pipelines, he also checks the trees and fallen coconuts. Basically very dedicated to work, lives up to Jagatjyoti Basaveshwara's quote "Kayakave Kailasa" which means "work is worship."

In the third week I visited Bangalore, just a day. The following day Sridhar and I travelled to Bhogasandra with a short detour near Tumkur to see historical monuments of Gulur and Kaidala. Later in the day Satyaprakash, our friend from Bengaluru, joined us at Bhogasandra. The following day Venugopal from Mysuru joined us. It was a gathering of four primary school friends at Sridhar's farm, deep inside a rural realm. That evening we four went to Bhogasandra lake by walk. On the way we saw  a flock of peacocks & peahens.

Sridhar, Venu, Satyaprakash

Jan 19, we all went for an early morning walk deeper into the farm lands. Purpose of the outing was to pick & gather a citrus fruit called Yeralikayi. We happened to meet Eshanna near the target tree. He helped us pick two bag full Yeralikayi and accompanied us till Sridhar's house. On the way, the matter of inscription stone came up and luckily Eshanna obliged to take us to the spot. After breakfast. Satya left to Bengaluru and we went to catch up with Eshanna.

Venu hauling two bag full Yealikayi

After walking for about 15 minutes we reached a barren spot next to a coconut plantation. Eshanna looked around, under the bushes but unable to find the slab he had seen. Apparently the place had been disturbed by an excavator during while making a trench here. Eshanna felt the slab might've been buried when the trench was closed, he was disappointed. So was I. However, there was a rough granite slab with engraving on one face.

Eshanna and Venugopal

This is the best I could do with sunlight blazing down. Since the surface is coarse, the engraving is kind of camouflaged.

Here's a cropped version. On the top is a Shivalinga, surely Sun and Moon would also be present. Below the Shivalinga are five or six horizontal lines, between the lines there seems to be some text. As per Eshanna, a habitat existed here once upon a time. The place was abandoned during a scrouge. Looks like the habitat was mainly temporary structures since there are no ruins here except for this stone inscription.

That rear view of the slab. Geologically this stone is a fusion of granite and some other stone. Between this block and the bush were a few slimmer slabs buried in dirt. We tried to dislodge one of them but it wouldn't budge. To excavate we would require a lot of tools including a machete to clear the bush. A work for some other time.

Hoping to unearth the inscription some other time, we left and headed towards another coconut plantation of Eshanna. On the way we passed by a pond. On the pond banks was this anthill.

That's the pond. Eshanna said this pond was fed by canal water and rainwater too. This anthill with so many spikes has a special look.

From the opposite side it feels as though we are looking at a bull's horns.

Another 15 mins walk, we reached Eshanna's plantation where he plucked tender coconuts and opened them for us. The fresh cool drink was rejuvenating. We were thankful to Eshanna for taking out time from his busy schedule. I feel he walks 8 to 10 km daily and his mind is always engrossed with work. BTW, Sridhar tried to install a steps tracking app in Eshanna's smart phone, unsure if the installation was successful.

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Mar 23, 2024

Chatrapati Shivaji sculpture at Yadwad

Feb 12th 2024. The wait to meet the great traveler Pramod Potdar ended with his arrival at Dharwad. We met close to Pushpa's workplace, came home, rested for a while and planned to visit Yadwad village to see the sculpture of Chatrapati Shivaji situated inside a Hanuman temple. I was ignorant of this sculpture until Pramod mentioned it.

Yadwad is about 16 km north of Dharwad, off Dharwad-Uppinabetageri road. Hanuman Mandir is a stone's throw away from Yadwad bus-stand, one cannot really miss it. The structure is new but the deity is ancient. On inquiring, village folks pointed us to a spot next to the steps where Chatrapati's sculpture is kept.

The simple shrine housing the ancient and important artifact from the early 18th Century CE. This sculpture is special because it was made during Chatrapati's lifetime. The story goes like this: During the Maratha campaign, Belawadi a small kingdom in the present day Belagavi district was attacked. Belawadi king Ishaprabhu Desai died during a battle with Maratha army. Then Ishaprabhu Desai's wife Mallamma, daughter of Raja Madhulinga Nayaka of Sodhe kingdom, continued the war. However Mallamma had to concede defeat to the powerful Maratha army. Chatrapati Shivaji after meeting Mallamma, restored the kingdom to Desai family. Rani Mallamma, out of respect for Shivaji's kind gesture, got this sculpture made.

That's my friend Pramod bowing out of respect to his idol.

The three feet tall sculpture made of granite depicts Chatrapati astride a horse, wielding a sword and accompanied by his guards. The lower panel depicts Chatrapati and Mallamma engaged in conversation in the presence of two other people, probably their aides.

One thought is how or why this sculpture is at Yadwad instead of Belawadi. I'm assuming Rani Mallamma got the sculpture made at Belawadi since it was her kingdom's capital. So how did the sculpture reach a place 23 km away? Well, that's something to research about. While I was happy to be seeing this important artifact I was also concerned about the way it was placed. This sculpture deserves a better location and a small writeup for people's benefit. One point I would like to mention here is: Belwadi Rani Mallamma was Kittur Rani Chennamma's senior by at least seven decades. I do not remember seeing any ancient memorial of Rani Mallamma. Present day Belwadi is known for Sri Veerabhadreshwara Devastana.

Next to Chatrapati's sculpture, is this broken memorial-stone depicting a very handsome warrior engaged in a fierce battle.

Another artifact, a blank inscription stone is placed next to a building in a negligent manner. I wish villagers remove it from here, and place it next to the temple.

Having thanked the village people, Pramod and I left Yadwad. Since we were in the vicinity of Amminabavi, I felt Pramod might be interested in seeing the rock-cut underground temple and the massive open-well there.

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