Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Murthy, Hampi

December 11, 2024. This was the third day of Sridhar's & my tour of Hampi, Anegundi & Anjanadri. We commenced the tour at dawn, basically to beat the hordes of tourists. First we saw Sasive Kaalu Ganesha. a quick look at Hemakuta hill & Kadale Kaalu Ganesha. Then we went to see Badavi Linga and Narasimha statue. We were the only tourists at that time, probably the very first of the day.

The towering monolithic statue is mesmerizing. It feels as though Narasimha is actually gazing into anyone looking at his eyes. This statue is damaged, probably an intentional act after Vijayanagara's defeat by the invading armies. The original statue had Laskshmi seated on Narasimha's left thigh which is missing now. Also, the statue was meant to be a deity idol inside a Garbhagudi however we can see just incomplete sanctum walls. Probably the temple was in construction stage when the empire fell. Now, all we can do is imagine the size of the temple had it been completed.

A board planted near the statue describes Narasimha as follows:

ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮೀನರಸಿಂಹ ಬೃಹತ್ ಏಕಶಿಲೆಯ ಶಿಲ್ಪವು ವಿಜಯನಗರದ ಶಿಲ್ಪಕಲೆಯ ಪರಾಕಾಷ್ಠೆಯ ಅತ್ಯುತ್ತಮ ಉದಾಹರಣೆಯಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದು ಸುಮಾರು 6.70 ಮೀ. ಎತ್ತರವಿದೆ. ಶಾಸನದ ಪ್ರಕಾರ ಕ್ರಿ.ಶ. 1528ರಲ್ಲಿ ಶ್ರೀಕೃಷ್ಣದೇವರಾಯನ ಆಜ್ಞೆಯ ಮೇರೆಗೆ ಇದು ಪುರೋಹಿತ ಕೃಷ್ಣಭಟ್ಟ ಎಂಬವರಿಂದ ಪ್ರತಿಷ್ಠಾಪಿತವಾಯಿತು. ಭಗವಾನ್ ವಿಷ್ಣುವಿನ ನಾಲ್ಕನೇ ಅವತಾರವಾದ ನರಸಿಂಹ ಆದಿಶೇಷನ ಬೃಹತ್ ಸುರುಳಿಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಯೋಗಪಟ್ಟದೊಂದಿಗೆ ಯೋಗ ಭಂಗಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಕುಳಿತಿದ್ದಾನೆ. ನರಸಿಂಹ ಶಿಲ್ಪವನ್ನು ನಿರ್ದಿಷ್ಟ ವಾಸ್ತುಚೌಕಟ್ಟಿನಲ್ಲಿ ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಲಾಗಿದ್ದು, ಈ ಚೌಕಟ್ಟು ಬುಡದಲ್ಲಿ ಕುಳಿತಿರುವ ಸಿಂಹಗಳು, ವಿಶಿಷ್ಟ ಬಳ್ಳಿಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಎರಡು ಬಾಗುಗಳಿರುವ ಬೋದಿಗೆ ಮತ್ತು ಮಕರಗಳಿರುವ ಅರ್ಧಕಂಬಗಳು, ನರಸಿಂಹ ತಲೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಏಳು ಹೆಡೆಗಳನ್ನು ಬಿಚ್ಚಿರುವ ನಾಗ. ಅದರ ಮೇಲ್ಗಡೆ ಬೃಹತ್ ಬಳ್ಳಿಯ ಕಮಾನಿನ ತುದಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಕೀರ್ತಿಮುಖ ಇವನ್ನು ಒಳಗೊಂಡಿದೆ. ನರಸಿಂಹ ನಾಲ್ಕೂ ತೋಳುಗಳು ಅವನು ಹಿಡಿದುಕೊಂಡಿದ್ದ ಆಯುಧಗಳ ಸಹಿತ ಒಡೆದುಹೋಗಿವೆ. ಅವನ ಎಡ ತೊಡೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಕುಳಿತಿದ್ದ ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮಿಯ ವಿಗ್ರಹವು ನಾಶವಾಗಿದೆ. ನರಸಿಂಹ ವಿಗ್ರಹದ ಮುಖಕ್ಕೂ ಹಾನಿಯಾಗಿದೆ. ಹೀಗಾಗಿ ಈ ವಿಗ್ರಹವನ್ನು ಉಗ್ರ ನರಸಿಂಹ ಎಂಬುದಾಗಿ ಜನರು ತಪ್ಪಾಗಿ ಭಾವಿಸಿದ್ದಾರೆ. ಆದರೆ, ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮೀದೇವಿಯ ಬಲಗೈ ಹಿಂಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ನರಸಿಂಹನನ್ನು ಆಲಿಂಗಿಸಿರುವುದರಿಂದ ಇದು ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮೀನರಸಿಂಹ ಎಂಬುದು ಸ್ಪಷ್ಟವಿದೆ.

The huge monolithic sculpture of Lakshmi Narasimha is one of the most outstanding works of sculptural art of Vijayanagara. This statue stands to a height of 6.70 m. It was consecrated by priest Krishna Bhatta at the behest of Krishnadevaraya in 1528 CE as per lithic record. Narasimha, the fourth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, is found seated in yogic posture with Yogapatta on the giant coils of Adishesha, the sacred guardian snake of Vishnu. The figure of Narasimha is set within an architectural frame consisting of seated lions at the base, half pilasters with creeper motif, double- curved capitals and makaras on the sides, and a foliated frame topped with a Kirtimukha rising over the seven-hooded Naga on top. The four arms of the statue with their various attributes have been broken. The seated figure of his consort Lakshmi on his left lap is missing. The face too has been damaged which misled people into believing that it was the Ugra Narasimha (ferocious Narasimha). But the presence of the right hand of the goddess embracing the lord at the back is proof of it being that of Lakshmi Narasimha.

Want to know more about monuments at Hampi?
Do read this post- What to see in Hampae.

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ancient temples of Dharwad district

Dharwad was one of the largest districts of Karnataka until it was trifurcated in 1997, that's when Gadag and Haveri districts came into being. Dharwad being reduced to almost one third its original size had to give away a lot of historical monuments like temples, stepped wells, mantapas & inscriptions to the two new districts. Yet, within the present boundaries of Dharwad districts are several dozen ancient shrines out of which eight prominent temples have been listed here.

Someshwara Gudi, Dharwad: The temple is situated in the southeastern corner of Dharwad, in a shallow valley. One of the online sources say that Someshwara Gudi was built in the X Century by a king of Alupa dynasty. Later it was renovated in the XV Century by Vijayanagara King Immadi Devaraya. Presently the temple exterior is not even close its original form but the interiors seem to be well preserved. The main doorframe, Ranga Mantapa columns, Garbhagudi doorframe, the main deity Shiva Linga and Nandi - all are original sculptures. Opposite the temple is a stepped well. Despite its long history, this temple doesn't seem to be a protected monument. 

About half a kilometer away towards the east is Shalmala Ugamanasthala, the birth place of river Shalmala. A small shrine over the spring, the spring water collects into a large tank before flowing away and going underground and resurfaces somewhere in the western ghats.

Banashankari Devastana, Amargol: This protected monument, because of it's sandstone looks, feels as though it was plucked out from Badami or Aihole and planted here. That's just an imagination but it is a Chalukyan monument. According to ASI, this temple east facing Dwikutachala was built in the XI or XII Century. An inscription dated 1120 CE found here states that Saudhore Jakkarasa built it with Kesava and Bhairava as deities. Presently Bhairava idol housed in one of the sanctums is damaged, and the other sanctum has a Shiva Linga. Reaching this temple is easy since it is situated in Amargol village which is off Dharwad-Hubballi road.

Chandramouleshwara Gudi, Unkal: Here's another Chalukyan beauty. The temple design is unique with four entrances, each aligned to the four cardinal directions- east, west, north & south. Then you step inside the temple, you get to see a central Garbhagudi with four doors, each aligned to the four entrances of the temple. Now, coming to the deity, it's a four-faced Shiva Linga. The temple design emanates from the deity's form. Apart from it's unique deity and interior, the temple exterior is aptly decorated with geometric and floral patterns. One could easily spend an hour admiring this marvelous temple which is situated in Unkal village in Hubballi.

Bhavani Shankar Gudi, Old Hubballi: This is the only Trikutachala, and also the best preserved ancient structure in Dharwad district. This too an east-facing temple, it's main sanctum is open towards the easterly direction. The main sanctum is dedicated to Bhavani Shankar, the south-facing sanctum is dedicated to Sriman Narayana and the north-facing sanctum is dedicated to Ganesha. This temple has been restored by the ASI at some point of time. While planning a visit here one can also see Siddarooda Matha since they are situated close to each other.

Shambulingeshwar Gudi, Kundagol: This XI Century east-facing temple was created during Western Chalukyan rule. In plan this temple is star-shaped. The temple's 30+ turned pillared hall is a sight to behold. Originally, these pillars are turned to perfection with sharp edges, graceful curves and polished to mirror finish. Over the centuries, the mirrors have been vandalized however, one must be thankful that the temple have survived in the present state. Apparently, a lightning struck this temple hence a part of the stone canopy has broken. Kundagol is about 15 km from NH48.

Kalmeshwara Gudi, Kamadhenu: Kamadhenu village is situated off Hubballi-Kalghatgi highway. The north-east facing temple is at the southern tip of the little village. The structure is made of soapstone. The temple's Sabha Mantapa, a large pillared hall with Sukhanasi around its perimeter can be entered by three entrances. All pillars in the Sabha Mantapa are fluted. The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva Linga and a Nandi idol sits opposite the sanctum. The temple's Shikhara is a pyramidal structure. Going its design, it seems like was built during the Western Chalukyan times.

Basavanna Gudi, Tambur: Nestled in the Devikoppa forest is Tambur which is popular for Basavanna Gudi. The ancient temple is seems like it was built during the Chalukyan times, probably in the XII Century. This east-facing temple is fully enclosed and had two entrances. The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva Linga and a Nandi idol sits at the opposite of the temple i.e. just in front of the eastern entrance. Within the temple site is a collection of ancient sculptures including a number of memorial stones with Kannada inscription. Tambur is about 45 km from Dharwad and 30 km from Hubballi.

Amruteshwara Gudi, Annigeri: Amruteshwara can be called as the largest ancient temple in Dharwad district. It was built in the XI Century CE by Kalyani Chalukyan rulers. Like Tambur Basavanna Gudi, this temple too is east-facing and has two entrances. The structure is made of soapstone, it has 76 pillars and its walls are covered with sculptures of characters from Hindu legends. Amruteshwara temple is said to be the prototype for Itagi Mahadeva in Koppal district. Withi in the premises of the temple are three inscription slabs. The temple has a nice open space around which is enclosed by a wide fort-like stone wall. Annigeri was a place of great importance once upon a time. Besides Amruteshwara gudi there are six other ancient shrines namely- Banashankari Gudi, Gajina Basappa Gudi, Hire Hanuman Gudi, Kambada Hanuman Gudi, Puradeeshwara Gudi and  Ramalinga Gudi

Here's a map with these temples marked. Hoping this helps anyone planning a tour of these temples.

 

This post speaks only about temples. To see the post covering all places of interest, check out the main article What to see in Dharwad district.

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