Parshvanatha Jinalaya, Hampi

Dec 9th 2024. We reached Anantasayana Gudi village around 9 AM. A decade ago I'd seen the humongous temple once dedicated to sleeping Vishnu, now an inactive temple. We stopped so that Sridhar could see it. Then we moved on towards Kamalapur where we visited Pattabhirama Devastana, Lokapavani, the domed gateway and the museum. Then we checked into KSTDC lodge at Kamalapur, lunched and rested for a while. We resumed the tour around 3-30 pm. We spent almost an hour at Zenana enclosure and elephant stables. I'd wanted to explore the ruins beyond the stables and this was the right time.

About 150 meters from the stables are ruins of two temple, the one on the right hand side is Parshvanatha Jinalaya.

A tourism board planted close by describes the temple as follows:

ಪಾರ್ಶ್ವನಾಥ ಜಿನಾಲಯವು ಪಾನ್ ಸುಪಾರಿ ಬಜಾರಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಕಂಡುಬರುವ ಪ್ರಮುಖ ದೇವಾಲಯವಾಗಿದೆ. ಇಲ್ಲಿನ ಕ್ರಿ.ಶ. ೧೪೨೭ರ ಶಾಸನವು ಪ್ರೌಢದೇವರಾಯನು ಕ್ರಮುಕಪರ್ಣಾಪಣ ಬೀದಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಪಾರ್ಶ್ವನಾಥ ಚೈತ್ಯಾಲಯವನ್ನು ಕಲ್ಲಿನಿಂದ ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಿದನೆಂದು ಹೇಳಿದೆ. ಇದನ್ನು ಜೈನ ಪಂಥದ ೨೩ನೇ ತೀರ್ಥಂಕರನಾದ ಪಾರ್ಶ್ವನಾಥನಿಗೆ ಸಮರ್ಪಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಎರಡನೇ ದೇವರಾಯ ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಿದ ಉತ್ತರಾಭಿಮುಖದ ಈ ಜೈನ ದೇವಾಲಯವನ್ನು ಈಗಿನ ಸ್ವರೂಪಕ್ಕೆ ನವೀಕರಿಸಿದ್ದು ಕೃಷ್ಣದೇವರಾಯ. ನೆಲಮಟ್ಟದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಪಾರ್ಶ್ವನಾಥ ಜಿನಾಲಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹ, ಅರ್ಧ ಮಂಟಪ, ನವರಂಗ, ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪ, ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪದಲ್ಲಿ 'ಇನ್ನೊಂದು ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹವಿದೆ. ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹದಲ್ಲಿ ಸಿಂಹಮುಖ ಪೀಠವಿದ್ದು ಶಿಲ್ಪವಿರುವುದಿಲ್ಲ. ಲಲಾಟದಲ್ಲಿ ತೀರ್ಥಂಕರನನ್ನು ಕಡೆದಿರುವರು. ನವರಂಗ ತಲಾ ನಾಲ್ಕು ಬಹುಮುಖಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಕಡೆದ ದಪ್ಪನೆಯ ಕಂಬಗಳಿವೆ. ನವರಂಗದ ಎರಡೂ ಕಡೆಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಇಪ್ಪತ್ತೆರಡು ತೀರ್ಥಂಕರರನ್ನು ಪ್ರತಿಷ್ಠಾಪಿಸಿದ್ದ ಪೀಠಗಳನ್ನು ಮಾತ್ರ ಕಾಣುತ್ತೇವೆ. ಇಲ್ಲಿನ ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪದ ಪ್ರವೇಶದ್ವಾರದ ಇಕ್ಕೆಲಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಆನೆಗಳನ್ನು ಕಡೆದಿರುವುದು ವಿಶೇಷ. ಈಶಾನ್ಯಕ್ಕೆ ಪೂಜಾ ಕಾರ್ಯಗಳಿಗೆಂದೇ ತೆಗೆಸಲಾದ ಬಾವಿಯನ್ನು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು. ಈ ದೇವಾಲಯ ಪ್ರದೇಶದಲ್ಲಿ ನಡೆಸಿದ ಉತ್ಪನನಗಳಿಂದ ಅನೇಕ ತೀರ್ಥಂಕರರ ಕೆತ್ತನೆಗಳನ್ನು ಹೊರತೆಗೆಯಲಾಗಿದೆ ಮತ್ತು ಅವುಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಕೆಲವನ್ನು ರಾಣಿಯರ ಅಂತಃಪುರದ ಖಜಾನೆ ಕಟ್ಟಡದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಶಿಲ್ಪಕಲಾ ಗ್ಯಾಲರಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರದರ್ಶನಕ್ಕೆ ಇಡಲಾಗಿದೆ.

Parshvanatha Jinalaya is an important temple found in the Paan Supari Bazaar, The 1426 CE. inscription records that Proudadevaraya constructed this Temple from stone found on the Kramuka Parnapana Street. The temple is dedicated to the 23 Tirthankara Farshvanatha, of the Jain sect. This Jain Temple, constructed by Devaraya I and was renovated by Krishnadevaraya. It is at the same level as the road and consists of a garbhagriha, an Ardhamantapa, a Navaranga and a Sabhamantapa. The Sabhamantapa also has a Garbhagnha with a pedestal that has the face of a lion carved on it. On the lintel of its doorway. there is a sculpture of a Tirthankara. There are four, strong, multi-sided pillars in the Navaranga, on either side of which there are twenty-two pedestals of the Tirthankaras. The entrance of the Sabhamantapa has carvings of elephants instead of the usual Dwarapalakas For rituals, a tank is constructed towards the northeast of the temple. Numerous excavated Tirtharikara sculptures are now placed in the gallery of the Treasury building of the Zenana Enclosure.

The description says that this Jinalaya is situated in Paan Supari Bazar but actually it's not because the actual location is about 490 meters away. Having said that the description matches except that it does not mention two inscriptions here. Wondering if it was relocated in the recent times. Anyway, let's take a look. The sculpture of a Tirthankara on the lintel (see inset) confirms this as a Jinalaya.

The construction of the temple seems very much like Vijayanagara. It is said that the kingdom was not only tolerant to all sects of Hindu fold but also to Abrahamic faiths. So here we have evidence of Shaiva, Vaishnava and Jaina temples side by side.

As we step into the temple, we see the Navaranga Manatapa and the doorway of the Antharala (vestibule).

We get a glimpse of the sanctum, there's only a pedestal, no deity. The columns and beams are bereft of decorative sculpture.

Back at the Mukhamanatapa (verandah) are two inscription blocks, on either sides of the doorway. The letters are of same size, lines are straight and precisely spaced. I for one can't write a line clearly with pen and paper. The ancient people wrote so neatly on stone.

While I took pictures, Mr. Bidare had stretched out comfortably on the Sukhanasi. I feel he was eagerly awaiting sunset to call it a day. But no, we still had a couple more places to see, two more kilometers to walk.

About 90 meters from this Jinalaya is Vishnu temple and further ahead is Sringarada Hebbagilu. In between are two more ruined temple structures. One of them is a compact structure with richly decorated columns. 

I stepped into the ruins wary of the precariously balanced columns and walls. All the columns of this temple are grand. It's sad to see the condition.. Hoping ASI takes up restoration work of this little temple.

We continue our trek towards Sringarda Hebbagilu which literally means decorated gateway.

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Cave temple and tourist bungalow ruins

This rock-cut shrine is part of the wide cluster behind the queen's bath house, the cluster which includes Chandrashekara Devastana, Saraswati Devastana and Octagonal water pavilion. It's a couple of minute's walk from Saraswati Devastana which sits atop an outcrop. While there are boards calling it 'cave temple' it is marked as 'Rathi temple' on Google Maps.

While most rock-cut shrines are at ground level or above it, this one is below the ground level. Looks like the builders excavated to reach the sandstone rock's base and built retaining walls to keep dirt in place.

A board close to the temple describes the cave temple in two lines. Then it describes the ruins of a guest house next to the cave temple:

ಗುಹಾಂತರ ದೇವಾಲಯವು ಮಹಾನವಮಿ ದಿಬ್ಬದ ಪೂರ್ವಕ್ಕೆ, ಅಷ್ಟಭುಜ ಸ್ನಾನಗೃಹದ ಉತ್ತರಕ್ಕೆ ಸಮೀಪದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಂಡುಬರುತ್ತದೆ. ಉತ್ತರಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿರುವ ಈ ಗುಹಾಲಯವು ನೆಲಮಟ್ಟದಿಂದ ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ಕೆಳಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ನಿರ್ಮಿತವಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದು ಹಂಪಿಯಲ್ಲಿಯೇ ಏಕೈಕ ಗುಹಾಂತರ ದೇವಾಲಯವಾಗಿದೆ. ಈ ದೇವಾಲಯದ ಮುಂದಿನ ಪ್ರದೇಶದಲ್ಲಿ ಉತ್ಪನನ ನಡೆಸಿ ಆಡಳಿತ ಕಛೇರಿ, ದರ್ಬಾರ್ ಹಾಲ್, ವಾಸಗೃಹ ಮತ್ತು ಒಂದು ಭೋಜನ ಶಾಲೆಯೊಂದಿಗೆ ಪೂರ್ವಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿ ಸರಣಿ ಶೌಚಾಲಯಗಳು ಬೆಳಕಿಗೆ ಬಂದಿವೆ. ದರ್ಬಾರ್ ಹಾಲ್ನ ಈಶಾನ್ಯ ಮೂಲೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಒಂದು ಪ್ರವೇಶ ಮಹಾದ್ವಾರವಿದ್ದು, ಹೊರಗೆ ಒಂದು ಕುದುರೆ ಲಾಯವಿದೆ. ಈ ಕಟ್ಟಡಗಳ ಸಮೂಹವು ವಿದೇಶಿ ಬರಹಗಳನ್ವಯ ಪ್ರವಾಸಿ ಅತಿಥಿಗೃಹ ಆಗಿರುವ ಸಾಧ್ಯತೆ ಇದ್ದು, ಸನೀಹದಲ್ಲಿಯೇ ಎರಡು ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಮಹಾದ್ವಾರಗಳಾದ ಶೃಂಗಾರದ ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲು ಮತ್ತು ಸೋಮವಾರದ ಬಾಗಿಲುಗಳು ಕಂಡುಬರುತ್ತವೆ.

ಅರಮನೆಗಳು ಎಲ್ಲಾ ಪ್ರದೇಶಗಳಲ್ಲಿದ್ದರೂ, ಶ್ರೇಷ್ಠರ ಅರಮನೆ ಆವರಣ ಮತ್ತು ಟಂಕಸಾಲೆಯ ಆವರಣದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಅರಮನೆಗಳು ಮುಖ್ಯವಾಗಿದ್ದು, ಅವುಗಳ ರಚನಾ ಶೈಲಿಯು ಎಲ್ಲಾ ಅರಮನೆಗಳ ರಚನಾ ಶೈಲಿಯನ್ನು ಪ್ರತಿನಿಧಿಸುತ್ತವೆ. ಈ ಕಟ್ಟಡ ಸಮುಚ್ಚಯದಲ್ಲಿ ರಾಜರ ವಂಶಸ್ಥರು, ಶ್ರೇಷ್ಠರು ಅಥವಾ ಮುಖ್ಯ ಅತಿಥಿಗಳು ವಾಸಮಾಡಿರಬಹುದೆಂದು ಅವುಗಳ ವಿಸ್ತಾರತೆ ಮತ್ತು ರಚನಾ ಶೈಲಿಯನ್ನು ಆಧರಿಸಿ ತರ್ಕಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ.

The Cave Temple is found to the east of Mahanavami Dibba, near the Octagonal Bath. This north-facing temple is slightly below the ground level and is the only cave temple in Hampi. In the front area of this temple, during the archaeological excavation a complex of structures consisting, an administrative block, a durbar hall, a royal residence and a Bhojana shala with series of toilets facing east. It has an entrance at durbar hall through a north-eastern entrance which also has a horse stables. Near by there are the two entrances of Sringarada Hebbagilu and Somavarada Bagilu. this could be the guest house for dignitaries visiting the great city as explained by foreign chronicles.

Though there are palaces in the entire region of Hampi, the palaces found in Noblemen's Quarters and Mint Area are prominent. Its architecture style resembles that of the other palaces. Based on the architectural style and its large proportions, it is believed to be the living quarters of the noblemen, royal family and their guests.

The north facing rock-cut temple has just two chambers. The outer doorway and walls are devoid of any decorative sculptures. However the sculptors have provided a wide overhang to prevent rainwater entry.

This is the north facing sanctum. Inside you can see the pedestal which is devoid of deity. There's a touch of decor around the doorframe, and on ceiling is divided into three sections just like rock-cut shrines at Badami and Aihole. I feel this was a Jaina Basadi or a shelter used by Jaina monks.

Due to its simplicity there's nothing much to see. We step out and check the yard in front. On the left is a platform, probably a natural rock with a leveled surface. 

We walk towards the guest house ruins. The neighboring rock formation is granite on which steps have been carved. On the top is a structure made of granite blocks and mortar. I'm not sure about the purpose of that structure, if it was a shelter or a water tank. Anyhow, at the base of the rock is a smaller structure which is a chamber connected to underground water canals. Hampi being an advanced city of it's time had a huge population and there was a need for fresh water, not just residents but also for visitors, animals like horses, cattle, camels and elephants. Hence the city has a network of water tanks, paviliosn and canals.

We found more such chambers and water tanks.

A glimpse of the palace ruins from ground level in dim light. I wanted to explore the ruins but fading light and thorny shrubs dissuaded me. Perhaps the exploration is for another day.

As we walk towards the octagonal water pavilion, I noticed ruins of a gateway. Again the path towards it was filled with thorny plants so dropped the idea of reaching it and decided to head back to my car and then go towards Bhojana Shala.

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