Itagi Mahadeva Devasthana - part 1

My first visit to Itagi was October 2009. Plan for the day was to see Lakkundi and return to Dharwad. However a tourist guide at Lakkundi insisted on a visit to Itagi and Kukanur. Yes, I visited both places and the sculptures of Itagi Mahadeva temple blew me off! They were one of the best quality works ever seen. Sadly some of delicate sculptures are damaged, yet there's so much remaining intact which can leave you amazed.

August 15, 2017

Having camped at Anegundi village, we had spent two days sightseeing Anegundi and Hampi, our plan for the day was to drive to Dharwad. Since we were expected at Dharwad by lunch time, we had plans to see Kukanur and Itagi on the way, Pushpa had seen neither. First we visited Kukanur and then came to Itagi. Independence Day flag hoisting had just finished and a procession was in progress at the village square, school kids dressed in white waving flags. It was 9-30 as we entered the temple complex.

This complex has about 15 temples, with Mahadeva temple being the largest. The other temples are smaller and incomplete. The main temple is east facing and behind it is a Kalyani. Opposite the complex is a large pond, probably ancient but man made.

Lets start with the rear view of Mahadeva temple. The temple has one Garbhagudi with a Shikhara and three entrances. Each of the entrances has Mukhamantapa. The temple is an example of one of the best in Chalukyan architecture. As you see the Shikhara's upper portion is not original, its was restored recently. Good job by the restoration team.

This is the rear-side view. In this view about ¾ of the temple's length is visible, the front portion is concealed behind one of the Mantapa's pillars. It is said that Amruteshwara Devasthama of Annigeri was the prototype of Itagi Mahadeva temple. Annigeri is about 67 kms away from here.

This is the front entrance, with the Shikhara hidden its looks pretty simple, right? Every pillar here is complex, detailed work. Builders did not plan anything simple. Look at any part- pillars, walls, Shikhara, domes and door-frames.

Here we are about to step into the pillared temple. These pillars are standing freely on the floor, they are not bonded in anyway. While the pillars in the front have square bases, the inner pillars are much more complex.

Basavanna facing the Garbhagudi tells this temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The plain pillar in the aisle seen here was later addition, probably to support a weak beam. Notice the pillars in the foreground.

This is the dance hall, the platform has a circular stage at the center. The Garbhagudi in the background is located on the left side of this temple. I think this isn't the main shrine but presently rituals are being performed here. Again, we have two more plain pillars to support a weak beam.

This is the exterior view of the Garbhagudi. Looks like this temple is a Trikutachala. There should be another Garbhagudi on the opposite side as well.

Looking towards the main entrance. Pillar designs are truly eye catching and awe inspiring. Nandi idol is damaged badly.

This is one of the domes, probably over the dance stage. Four concentric rings and sixteen spokes merge into the hub which looks like a lotus bud.

Side view of Mukhamantapa.. this part of the temple is symmetrical in plan and elevation.

The temple has two mantapas protruding from the main structure. Again the pillars, crown and door frame associated to this structure are complex sculptures. The mantapa has a concave dome similar to the one seen earlier.

The former dome's hub was closed lotus bud, here the bud is slightly open. Then the two inner concentric rings are broken by design.. wondering why.

The line where the dome meets the head portion of the door frame.Notice how the dome transitions from circle to octagon to square. The door frame has seven levels. One of the levels is mesh work studded with characters from Hindu legends.

The mantapa pillars. The corner pillars look like some complex gear system, don't they. How did the sculptors create that, the precision from top to bottom. The turned pillars are graceful.

View from inside of the Mantapa. Before the temple was taken over by ASI, this was used for various activities by village folks, right from storing material, as a cattle shed, club for board games or just to pass time. Notice the little pits on the seat, those were definitely created by hands which did not have anything better to do. Inside there's a series of pits used to play some sort of game.

I move along the temple exterior. This canopy catches my eyes. There's no window as such, the canopy is decorative, made to look like wood work. Notice how the pillar is.. horizontal and vertical ribs.. amazing!

View of the Shikhara, will need a life time to study the design.

Another type of canopy.. a curved one. Notice the handsome rain water drain pipe with a circular hole. Flowing water is fine but no to stagnant water on the roof. This is how buildings last.

There's more to see in this temple.. the article will continue in Itagi Mahadeva Devasthana - part 2.

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