Sola Kambh Masjid, Bidar fort

My first visit to Bidar. Gulli and I had ridden from Bangalore to Bidar, 750 kms on my Hero Honda Splendor. Back then every corner of the fort was accessible, we could decide where to go and where not to. Gulli and I had explored the fort non-stop, we had climbed the army barracks, peeked into the prisoner dungeons, walked along the walls, climbed bastions and turrets.. the energy of that age! The gateway buildings were a complex maze, it was fun to explore the ruins, wish we had digital cameras back then, we would've shot a thousand pictures for sure. We carried a aim and shoot Yashica, had to change rolls and batteries after 36 shots, photographs had to be rationed. Anyway, I'd scanned some pictures and saved them.

This is how Sola Kambh mosque was in 1996. That's me with the caretaker standing on the fountain platform. The caretaker was washing clothes when we arrived here, this was his regular washing, bathing place. We ventured into the mosque and were amazed at the pillars and domes. 

February 1996

My next visit was with my maternal uncle Praveen. We had come on a business trip to Basava Kalyan and did some sightseeing too. The place had changed little.. the previous caretaker was gone, the enclosure was gated as well.

January 2003

September 3, 2018
This was my fifth visit, this time with Pushpa. I wanted her to see the northern most district of Karnataka. Let me be frank, tourism department had made Bidar fort tourist unfriendly. We came here early morning hoping to see the fort in cool weather. The guards at the gate did not allow us in stating that fort opens at 9 AM. A ugly board handing on the fort gate stated two timings- 6 AM and 9 AM. As per rules all monuments are open to public between sunrise to sunset i.e. 6 AM to 6 PM. We decided to end our conversation with the insensitive guards and leave the place. Wishing the authorities train the guards basic etiquette. We went towards Narsimha Jharani and Ashtoor. We came back to the fort by noon. We walked a lot.. first to see the huge cannon on the eastern wall, then towards Kali Burj (black turret) to see the other cannon, the palace ruins and then came back to see the mosque.

We approached the mosque enclosure from the rear side. This is the mosque's rear wall above which is its impressive dome. The triangles on the base is a neat touch. try imagining the structure when its painted white.

The mosque's facade, scarred by those metallic grills. The dome as seen from the front, sitting majestically above the tall pillars and arches. A board planted by ASI describes the mosque as below-

This mosque is Bidar's oldest Islamic building and one fo India's largest mosques. Built in 1423-24, it was originally Bidar's principal mosque, when it was known as Masjid-i-Jami. The name Solah Kambh derives from sixteen pillars in the middle portion of the prayer hall.

This mosque is a good example of the second phase of the Deccan style of architecture. The mosque's large prayer hall is divided into aisles by massive circular columns, a distinctive feature of this building. The tops of these pillars have simple foliar decorations of a style unusual in medieval Indian mosques. The roof is crowned by a majestic dome raised on high clerestory with windows of perforated screens in different geometric patterns. Th mosque's long facade of uniformly sized arched openings is topped with a parapet that has pleasing geometric designs. As interesting aspect of the mosque are the arrangements made for water supply. Water was collected in a reservoir on the roof from where it was distributed to cisterns on the ground floor for use by worshippers. There are also traces of a water channel on the western wall of the mosque.

In 1656, when Aurangzeb, then Mughal Viceroy of the Deccan, conquered Bidar, it was in this mosque that he had the khutba (prayers) recited in his father's name to proclaim his sovereignty over the newly acquired territory.

I think there are 16 arches. Sola Kambh means 16 columns, that's how the mosques is known as. The interior is similar to Jamia Masjid inside Gulbarga fort, though its much lower in height.

View of Tarkash Mahal from the mosque. A board planted by ASI describes the palace as below-

Tarkash Mahal was probably originally built by the Bahamani kings (14-15th century AD). However, the style of decorative work in the upper storeys show these parts were added by Barid Shahi kings. It was possibly named for having been built for a Turkish wife of the king.

The ground floor has a series of rooms with vaulted roofs built in four rows, one behind the other. These rooms were used for storing miscellaneous articles of domestic and state use, including ammunition. On the first storey is a principal apartment consisting of a hall divided into eight bays by the insertion of massive arches. Beyond this hall, towards the north are two more halls. Beyond the halls is an open space. Traces of an old parapet here show that the upper portions of the palace were later additions. The uppermost storey consists of a hall in the centre and small rooms on either side. The hall has arched openings and a number of small arched niches in the wall. A terrace with a fountain is found in front of these apartments.

The walls in many of these rooms are beautifully decorated with coloured tiles and stucco work. The distinctive Barid Shahi motif of a chain and pendant is prominent in the upper rooms of the palace.

The ground has been converted into a garden.

This wall and building are opposite the mosque. Behind it is a large courtyard suitable for gatherings or meetings. Lets take a look at the enclosure.

This is the enclosure with special types of buildings on one side. I wonder what the tall building is for. Unfortunately all these buildings are under lock and key, out of bounds to public. The two storey building with sloping roofs is interesting, but the entrance seems to be on the side.

Panning to the left, a cylindrical-conical dome comes into view. Adjoining the dome is a laterite sentry shelter. There's another such sentry post on the opposite end. Looking at these, Pushpa said this seems to be a prison. Well, unless we see the inside, we can't be sure what exactly this place was used for.

Another view of the dome and sentry shelter.

The opposite end.. another dome and sentry post.

 Turning our attention back to the house with sloping roof. It has a twin. Wondering if these were built during Bahamani time or much later during Nizam's rule or British rule. They could be officers quarters or offices themselves. Next to the second building is a narrow space, a small gun is seen there.

The cannon. Purely functional. Its bore is about 6". Going by its length, this gun's range could be 200 to 400 meters.

If you with to see Bidar fort completely, plan to spend an entire day here. If tourists could hire bicycles to tour the fort, it would be great.
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