Sarveshwara Devasthana, Naregal

This unique temple was discovered as I researched historical monuments of  Haveri district. Its sloping roof was the most interesting feature. The other temple with a notable slope roof is Madhukeshwara Devastana, Banavasi. However, this temple we are seeing today has a dominant sloped roof, like a hut. I was eager to see the temple for real, decided to visit Naregal during the next opportunity.

July 26, 2019
After a tiring day long tour of Santhebennur and Davangere, we had checked into a hotel at Haveri. The following morning we check out and headed towards Naregal which is 15 kms in the westerly direction.. Haveri-Sirsi highway. We drove through Sangur village, crossed Varada river, and turned right towards our destination. The interior roads were solid concrete surfaces flanked by lush green fields.. maize, green-gram, soya, cotton.. seasonal crops.

We had to drive through the narrow streets to reach the other side of the village. People here refer to the temple as Sarateshwara Gudi. The temple is situated on the village border, next to a pond which was dry due to lack of rains. We parked our car to a side and walked about 200 meters to the temple which has a wall and fence around it. Yes, its a protected monument. This is the first glance of Sarveshwara Devasthana.

As we approached the temple, there were two teenage girls walking ahead of us. Pushpa and I spoke to them and found they were daughters of the temple priest. They come here every morning for a walk and sweep the yard. It was nice to know that daily rituals were performed here.. that way the temple will be tidy.

That's Shivanandayya S Hiremath, his daughters Jyoti and Swheta with Pushpa. Shivanandayya swept the interior floor as well. Thanks to their efforts, this monument is well maintained. This east-facing temple is rectangular in plan, has a Sabha Mantapa (meeting hall), Sukanasi (platform seat), Antarala (vestibule connecting the meeting hall and sanctum), Garbhagudi (sanctum), a main door and two side entrances.

Opposite the main door are a line of shaped stones which I guess represent donation in the form of cattle given to this temple. One can see similar stones at Lad Khan Gudi at Aihole.

Lets take a look at the interior now. This is the meeting hall. There are four rows of columns running along the length of this hall, two similar pairs but every pillar is unique. The low ceiling is is supported by beams as well.

Another view of the hall. The greenish layer is fungus on rock which is normally seen during rainy season. One can see two types of pillars- square base with circular top and the other is basically square in section but has curved edges. The round pillars are polished smooth, so smooth that originally they might have had mirror finish. The other pillars too have smooth surfaces but not mirror like. At the end of this hall is the Antarala and Garbhagudi.

Closer view of the elaborate mesh wall and door frame. The sanctum is lit by a single oil lamp bright enough for one to see the deity but not enough for the camera from here. The perforated screen is a classic design seen in many a Chalukyan temples. The same design is also seen in relatively newer Kakatiyan temples at Warangal.

The door frame is graced by the Trimurti.. Shiva flanked by Brahma and Vishnu. In most temples, I've seen Gajalakshmi on door frames however this temple has Trimurti, something special about this temple. Shiva's third eye is clearly visible, so is his Trishul and he seems to be seated on a creature with more than four legs.

The deity.. Shivalinga mounted in a pedestal.

Turning our attention back to the pillars.. The precise curvilinear edges of the ridges along the height of the pillars. What a graceful combination of straight and curved lines. The simple yet beautiful natural shades of stone.

Earlier we saw the opposite view of the Sabha Mantapa. Notice the perforated screen on the front as well. The pillars were ground smooth so that light gets reflected and lights ups the interior? Wish I could spend a day and night here once.

In this picture, one can get a glimpse of the sitting platform. I think the younger folk sat on the Sukhanasi while the elderly sitting on the floor formed the core, discussing and taking decisions. try imagining a group of people dressed in white cotton fabric.. kache and turban, probably chewing betel leaves.

Peacock at the base of one of the pillars.

A closer look at the mid part of a column. This pattern is imitated by gold bangle makers. Such precision shapes could be achieved by some kind of special equipment. Wondering what it was.

One cannot describe the beauty of this temple enough. Best is to visit it. We step out to see the exterior. The rear part of the temple, i.e. the portion which houses the Garbhagudi is definitely Chalukyan. I think, the sloped roof was made to handle the heavy rain of this region. Rainfall increases as you go more to the west.. i.e. towards the coastal line. In foreground is group of natural rocks and a broken hero-stone.

Taking a closer look at the sloped roof. The roof slabs are almost 20' long, 4' wide and 5" thick. The slabs edges have channels which overlap forming a waterproof joint. Rainwater flowing through the gaps drip into the channel, flow down the channel and fall to the ground just outside the Sukhanasi backrest.

Here's a closer look at one of the many such joints. No complicated designs. Simple design that works for sure.

This is the perforated screen flanking the main entrance and Antarala door. The stepped perforation and the floral mural.. oh what a classic combination. Now lets check out the relics outside the temple but within the fence. A disfigured idol.. trying to imagine its original looks.

Lastly we come to the hero-stones and inscription slabs. It is said that the inscriptions are from Banavasi and Chalukyan times. One of the inscriptions mentions the name Nareyamgal which became Naregal with the passage of time.

After an hour of moving around the temple, I sit down to rest my legs. Our friend Shivanandayya stays with us after his daughters invited us home and left.

At the Hiremath's home, we have upit and tea. I was hungry and their invitation was timely, hunger demolished. We chat, take family pictures for them and say bye to them. Our next destination was Balambeed, a short drive from here.

Back home, we printed pictures and posted them to Naregal. The girls were happy to receive the pictures. They loved the last picture in this post. 
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