Dec 11, 2019

Ganapati Devastana, Hangal

This article is continuation of Tarakeshwara Devastana, Hangal - part-4.

Hangal is known for Tarakeshwara Devastana, a Chalukyan monument, a temple dedicated to the form of Shiva. The temple site has not one temple but two. The other temple is dedicated to Ganesha the remover of obstacles. Both temples' architecture are similar. The noticeable difference is the size and the forms of their Shikharas.

Ganesha Devastana horizontal axis is perpendicular to Tarakeshwara temple axis. While Tarakeshwara is east-facing, Ganesha is south-facing. In plan the temple has a Mukha Mantapa with Sukanasi around it, Antharala and Garbhagudi.

This the Mukha Mantapa. I think this place was used as Natya Mantapa since it has a circular stage in the center.

The door-frame and threshold are as grand as the columns. It seems both temples were built during the same time.
Another view of the Natya Mantapa. Looks like lime was applied to some of the surfaces. Lime has a corrosive effect on stones. Good someone had it removed.

This little temple also has a chandelier. The diameter is approximately 9 feet. The design is fascinating, thought provoking work. How did the sculptors manage to achieve the precision. Did they create the design on their own? How was the piece hauled up there?

In the given space and camera this is the best side view I could get. As you see the Gabhagudi crown is a tapering type called Rekhanagari Shikhara. This is the type which can be seen in North Indian temples. Chalukyan builders had designed and developed several types of Shikharas, the experiments were carried out at Aihole and Pattadakal.

A look at the Shikhara standing close to its base. The graceful curves merge to one point.. beautiful. In a way this Shikhara is difficult to construct compared to the stepped Shikhara. Oh the ancient builders, I bow with respect.

Having seen the wonderful monument, we prepared to leave, with one last look at Tarakeshwara Devatana. Now we had to pass through the crowded market, Pushpa already had a mental a list of things to buy. She stopped to pick up vegetables close to the temple gate. We had to buy a bag to carry our shopping. Pushpa picked up a couple of bags from a bag vendor, forgot to pay, the owner had to remind us about his payment! Small embarrassment.

First stop was onion and potato shop. Stuff was good, not the cold storage stuff we usually get in cities.

Next was fresh vegetables. The yellow tint is because of the makeshift shelter. All vendors are prepared for rains, business can't stop. Pushpa picked several vegetables, when done she forgot to pay again. Second embarrassment!!

Pushpa wanted to pick up vegetables for two or three shops, had to be reminded three times to pay. Then she wanted to purchase jowar but I was hesitant. So we called an aunt at Dharwad who advised to buy it at Dharwad instead. Thanks to my aunt I was spared the task of hauling 10kg jowar through the crowd.

We had to walk almost a kilometer, half way through rain started falling, we managed to stay dry, thanks to the market. By the way, Hangal being close to Sirsi which is known for pineapple production, has fresh pineapples. We picked up three, our car was filled with its sweet aroma.

The rainfall continued and got heavier. We were driving towards Tadas, the road was scenic because of the hills, curvy roads, green fields and woods. The rain was so heavy there were streams across the roads. It was many years since I'd seen such rains, thoroughly enjoyed the scenes.
.........

2 comments:

Nikhil said...

Glad that you posted about the market! The temple is really great, and you have done a very detailed job in the last posts on it. Your coverage of side temple was nice. In my earlier visits I missed noticing some things, like the roof of the Ganesha temple. But I cannot forget the market, and the houses that are so close to the temple (I did'nt mind them!). It was a rainy season for us too, and late evening I also remember an old bridge while approaching Hangal (from Bankapura). It was scenic in rain, and more so as a boy moved with his heard of goats atop the bridge, wearing a plastic sheet a rain coat. The drive in that area is charmingly beautiful.

siddeshwar said...

Nice to see your message Nikhil. I could not resist describing the details though the number of parts reached five. The market is absolutely adorable. The shops, merchandise, the people, the business, with these scenes its so much more easier to imagine ancient market places. and the rural life out there looks peaceful, treat for the eye :)