Sri Lakshmi Narasimha Murthy, Hampi

December 11, 2024. This was the third day of Sridhar's & my tour of Hampi, Anegundi & Anjanadri. We commenced the tour at dawn, basically to beat the hordes of tourists. First we saw Sasive Kaalu Ganesha. a quick look at Hemakuta hill & Kadale Kaalu Ganesha. Then we went to see Badavi Linga and Narasimha statue. We were the only tourists at that time, probably the very first of the day.

The towering monolithic statue is mesmerizing. It feels as though Narasimha is actually gazing into anyone looking at his eyes. This statue is damaged, probably an intentional act after Vijayanagara's defeat by the invading armies. The original statue had Laskshmi seated on Narasimha's left thigh which is missing now. Also, the statue was meant to be a deity idol inside a Garbhagudi however we can see just incomplete sanctum walls. Probably the temple was in construction stage when the empire fell. Now, all we can do is imagine the size of the temple had it been completed.

A board planted near the statue describes Narasimha as follows:

ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮೀನರಸಿಂಹ ಬೃಹತ್ ಏಕಶಿಲೆಯ ಶಿಲ್ಪವು ವಿಜಯನಗರದ ಶಿಲ್ಪಕಲೆಯ ಪರಾಕಾಷ್ಠೆಯ ಅತ್ಯುತ್ತಮ ಉದಾಹರಣೆಯಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದು ಸುಮಾರು 6.70 ಮೀ. ಎತ್ತರವಿದೆ. ಶಾಸನದ ಪ್ರಕಾರ ಕ್ರಿ.ಶ. 1528ರಲ್ಲಿ ಶ್ರೀಕೃಷ್ಣದೇವರಾಯನ ಆಜ್ಞೆಯ ಮೇರೆಗೆ ಇದು ಪುರೋಹಿತ ಕೃಷ್ಣಭಟ್ಟ ಎಂಬವರಿಂದ ಪ್ರತಿಷ್ಠಾಪಿತವಾಯಿತು. ಭಗವಾನ್ ವಿಷ್ಣುವಿನ ನಾಲ್ಕನೇ ಅವತಾರವಾದ ನರಸಿಂಹ ಆದಿಶೇಷನ ಬೃಹತ್ ಸುರುಳಿಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಯೋಗಪಟ್ಟದೊಂದಿಗೆ ಯೋಗ ಭಂಗಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಕುಳಿತಿದ್ದಾನೆ. ನರಸಿಂಹ ಶಿಲ್ಪವನ್ನು ನಿರ್ದಿಷ್ಟ ವಾಸ್ತುಚೌಕಟ್ಟಿನಲ್ಲಿ ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಲಾಗಿದ್ದು, ಈ ಚೌಕಟ್ಟು ಬುಡದಲ್ಲಿ ಕುಳಿತಿರುವ ಸಿಂಹಗಳು, ವಿಶಿಷ್ಟ ಬಳ್ಳಿಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಎರಡು ಬಾಗುಗಳಿರುವ ಬೋದಿಗೆ ಮತ್ತು ಮಕರಗಳಿರುವ ಅರ್ಧಕಂಬಗಳು, ನರಸಿಂಹ ತಲೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಏಳು ಹೆಡೆಗಳನ್ನು ಬಿಚ್ಚಿರುವ ನಾಗ. ಅದರ ಮೇಲ್ಗಡೆ ಬೃಹತ್ ಬಳ್ಳಿಯ ಕಮಾನಿನ ತುದಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಕೀರ್ತಿಮುಖ ಇವನ್ನು ಒಳಗೊಂಡಿದೆ. ನರಸಿಂಹ ನಾಲ್ಕೂ ತೋಳುಗಳು ಅವನು ಹಿಡಿದುಕೊಂಡಿದ್ದ ಆಯುಧಗಳ ಸಹಿತ ಒಡೆದುಹೋಗಿವೆ. ಅವನ ಎಡ ತೊಡೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಕುಳಿತಿದ್ದ ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮಿಯ ವಿಗ್ರಹವು ನಾಶವಾಗಿದೆ. ನರಸಿಂಹ ವಿಗ್ರಹದ ಮುಖಕ್ಕೂ ಹಾನಿಯಾಗಿದೆ. ಹೀಗಾಗಿ ಈ ವಿಗ್ರಹವನ್ನು ಉಗ್ರ ನರಸಿಂಹ ಎಂಬುದಾಗಿ ಜನರು ತಪ್ಪಾಗಿ ಭಾವಿಸಿದ್ದಾರೆ. ಆದರೆ, ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮೀದೇವಿಯ ಬಲಗೈ ಹಿಂಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ನರಸಿಂಹನನ್ನು ಆಲಿಂಗಿಸಿರುವುದರಿಂದ ಇದು ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮೀನರಸಿಂಹ ಎಂಬುದು ಸ್ಪಷ್ಟವಿದೆ.

The huge monolithic sculpture of Lakshmi Narasimha is one of the most outstanding works of sculptural art of Vijayanagara. This statue stands to a height of 6.70 m. It was consecrated by priest Krishna Bhatta at the behest of Krishnadevaraya in 1528 CE as per lithic record. Narasimha, the fourth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, is found seated in yogic posture with Yogapatta on the giant coils of Adishesha, the sacred guardian snake of Vishnu. The figure of Narasimha is set within an architectural frame consisting of seated lions at the base, half pilasters with creeper motif, double- curved capitals and makaras on the sides, and a foliated frame topped with a Kirtimukha rising over the seven-hooded Naga on top. The four arms of the statue with their various attributes have been broken. The seated figure of his consort Lakshmi on his left lap is missing. The face too has been damaged which misled people into believing that it was the Ugra Narasimha (ferocious Narasimha). But the presence of the right hand of the goddess embracing the lord at the back is proof of it being that of Lakshmi Narasimha.

Want to know more about monuments at Hampi?
Do read this post- What to see in Hampae.

......... 

ancient temples of Dharwad district

Dharwad was one of the largest districts of Karnataka until it was trifurcated in 1997, that's when Gadag and Haveri districts came into being. Dharwad being reduced to almost one third its original size had to give away a lot of historical monuments like temples, stepped wells, mantapas & inscriptions to the two new districts. Yet, within the present boundaries of Dharwad districts are several dozen ancient shrines out of which eight prominent temples have been listed here.

Someshwara Gudi, Dharwad: The temple is situated in the southeastern corner of Dharwad, in a shallow valley. One of the online sources say that Someshwara Gudi was built in the X Century by a king of Alupa dynasty. Later it was renovated in the XV Century by Vijayanagara King Immadi Devaraya. Presently the temple exterior is not even close its original form but the interiors seem to be well preserved. The main doorframe, Ranga Mantapa columns, Garbhagudi doorframe, the main deity Shiva Linga and Nandi - all are original sculptures. Opposite the temple is a stepped well. Despite its long history, this temple doesn't seem to be a protected monument. 

About half a kilometer away towards the east is Shalmala Ugamanasthala, the birth place of river Shalmala. A small shrine over the spring, the spring water collects into a large tank before flowing away and going underground and resurfaces somewhere in the western ghats.

Banashankari Devastana, Amargol: This protected monument, because of it's sandstone looks, feels as though it was plucked out from Badami or Aihole and planted here. That's just an imagination but it is a Chalukyan monument. According to ASI, this temple east facing Dwikutachala was built in the XI or XII Century. An inscription dated 1120 CE found here states that Saudhore Jakkarasa built it with Kesava and Bhairava as deities. Presently Bhairava idol housed in one of the sanctums is damaged, and the other sanctum has a Shiva Linga. Reaching this temple is easy since it is situated in Amargol village which is off Dharwad-Hubballi road.

Chandramouleshwara Gudi, Unkal: Here's another Chalukyan beauty. The temple design is unique with four entrances, each aligned to the four cardinal directions- east, west, north & south. Then you step inside the temple, you get to see a central Garbhagudi with four doors, each aligned to the four entrances of the temple. Now, coming to the deity, it's a four-faced Shiva Linga. The temple design emanates from the deity's form. Apart from it's unique deity and interior, the temple exterior is aptly decorated with geometric and floral patterns. One could easily spend an hour admiring this marvelous temple which is situated in Unkal village in Hubballi.

Bhavani Shankar Gudi, Old Hubballi: This is the only Trikutachala, and also the best preserved ancient structure in Dharwad district. This too an east-facing temple, it's main sanctum is open towards the easterly direction. The main sanctum is dedicated to Bhavani Shankar, the south-facing sanctum is dedicated to Sriman Narayana and the north-facing sanctum is dedicated to Ganesha. This temple has been restored by the ASI at some point of time. While planning a visit here one can also see Siddarooda Matha since they are situated close to each other.

Shambulingeshwar Gudi, Kundagol: This XI Century east-facing temple was created during Western Chalukyan rule. In plan this temple is star-shaped. The temple's 30+ turned pillared hall is a sight to behold. Originally, these pillars are turned to perfection with sharp edges, graceful curves and polished to mirror finish. Over the centuries, the mirrors have been vandalized however, one must be thankful that the temple have survived in the present state. Apparently, a lightning struck this temple hence a part of the stone canopy has broken. Kundagol is about 15 km from NH48.

Kalmeshwara Gudi, Kamadhenu: Kamadhenu village is situated off Hubballi-Kalghatgi highway. The north-east facing temple is at the southern tip of the little village. The structure is made of soapstone. The temple's Sabha Mantapa, a large pillared hall with Sukhanasi around its perimeter can be entered by three entrances. All pillars in the Sabha Mantapa are fluted. The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva Linga and a Nandi idol sits opposite the sanctum. The temple's Shikhara is a pyramidal structure. Going its design, it seems like was built during the Western Chalukyan times.

Basavanna Gudi, Tambur: Nestled in the Devikoppa forest is Tambur which is popular for Basavanna Gudi. The ancient temple is seems like it was built during the Chalukyan times, probably in the XII Century. This east-facing temple is fully enclosed and had two entrances. The sanctum is dedicated to Shiva Linga and a Nandi idol sits at the opposite of the temple i.e. just in front of the eastern entrance. Within the temple site is a collection of ancient sculptures including a number of memorial stones with Kannada inscription. Tambur is about 45 km from Dharwad and 30 km from Hubballi.

Amruteshwara Gudi, Annigeri: Amruteshwara can be called as the largest ancient temple in Dharwad district. It was built in the XI Century CE by Kalyani Chalukyan rulers. Like Tambur Basavanna Gudi, this temple too is east-facing and has two entrances. The structure is made of soapstone, it has 76 pillars and its walls are covered with sculptures of characters from Hindu legends. Amruteshwara temple is said to be the prototype for Itagi Mahadeva in Koppal district. Withi in the premises of the temple are three inscription slabs. The temple has a nice open space around which is enclosed by a wide fort-like stone wall. Annigeri was a place of great importance once upon a time. Besides Amruteshwara gudi there are six other ancient shrines namely- Banashankari Gudi, Gajina Basappa Gudi, Hire Hanuman Gudi, Kambada Hanuman Gudi, Puradeeshwara Gudi and  Ramalinga Gudi

Here's a map with these temples marked. Hoping this helps anyone planning a tour of these temples.

 

This post speaks only about temples. To see the post covering all places of interest, check out the main article What to see in Dharwad district.

.........

Kalmeshwara Devastana, Kamadhenu

Kalmeshwara Gudi remained unknown until I heard about it on Oct 28th from Vijay Menon my friend from Thane. The place is just 35 km from Dharwad and I was ignorant of it. Now, since it has been discovered, it's time to visit Kamadhenu.

Dec 1, 2024. Pushp and I left home around 9 AM. The 33 km journey took an hour to cover due to bad patches and road construction. Dharwad-Kalghatgi always has had rough patches, traveling hasn't been pleasant experience for decades. Finding the temple was easy, it's situated at the southern tip of the inverted isosceles shaped village. Beyond the village is a vast expanse of black-soil fields. There's ample open space around the temple but however the space was being temporarily used to store grain filled bags. Here's a side view of Kalmeshwara Gudi, a north-east facing one sanctum temple dedicated to Shiva Linga & Nandi.

Next to the temple are two inscription slabs. I'm not sure if the inscriptions and the temple are of the same time period. There could be a difference of few decades if not a century or two. I asked the Archaka if he had historical information. No, but he mentioned that it was written on the larger slab. I cannot really read the script, I had to leave it there.

A closer look at the larger inscription slab head. It seems like a Chalukyan time inscription.

This is the front view of Kalmeshwara Gudi. It has three entrances, one in the front and one each on it's northern and southern sides. On the front are bags of agricultural produce. They seem to be market ready, probably waiting for the best rate. I wish these farmers earn well, appropriate for their efforts.

The rear side view. The temple external walls are quite simple but elegant. The Shikhara is a pyramidal form. Going by the Shikhara design, this could be a temple built during Kadamba times or by a late descendant of Kadamba dynasty. The temple's open hall's roof has been renovated quite recently. Roof stone slabs have been replaced by concrete slab. Hoping the work is done after careful study of load bearing capacity of the columns.

This type of stone isn't available in and around Kamadhenu. It seems to be brought in from the Western ghats, maybe near Sirsi or Belagavi. The temple is well built for it to have survived those centuries. Despite it's heritage value, this isn't a ASI protected monument. I did not see any board as such. Also the Archaka confirmed that government hasn't placed any notice board here.

Where there's a Shivalaya there's a Bilva Patri tree. There's one tall here too. Leaning on the base of the Bilva tree is a beautiful idol of a Chaturbhuja Vishnu. At Vishnu's feet is Anjaneya. No idea why this idol has been kept outside the temple, in the open. The idol has qualities of Hoysala time sculptures.

Entering the temple through the side entrance. Directly ahead is idol of Nandi facing the sanctum.Apart from the roof repair, the temple floor is also has been renovated. Today being Amavasya, there was a regular flow of visitors with offerings to the deity.

Looking towards the eastern entrance. This Sabhamantapa, the meeting hall has a wide seating platform on three sides. At the center of the hall is Nandi. The eye-catching thing in this hall is the fluted pillars. All pillars are same except for the four pillars of the Nandi Mantapa.

This is the perforated wall separating the Sabha Mantapa and Antharala (vestibule connecting Sabha Mantapa and Garbhagudi.

A beautiful of idol of Nandi. The sculpture has features of Chalukyan Nandi idols.

Stepping into the Antharala. The vestibule itself has two sections, the sections separated by another perforated wall. On either ends of this sections, to the left and right, are several ancient idols. On the left are two idols of Ganesha, and one panel of Saptamatrika. Notice the while object? That's a large cylinder shaped Vibhuti.

Aum engraved on the cylinder side. Shivaya Namah Aum.

On the right end are three idols. One of them is Vishnu. I couldn't recognize the other two.

We had a good darshan of the deity- Kalmeshwara. We received prasada from the Archaka. We sat for a minute on the Sukanasi, the seating platform in the pillared hall. Having photographed the temple with a camera, I wanted to get a few aerial shots. I step out and launch DJI Mini 2.

This is the shot of the morning. An overhead view of the Shikhara.

Having discovered another ancient monument of Dharwad district, I'm sharing the names and links to other sites too. There are hundreds of ancient sites but what's listed here is the temples who have survived with their ancient structures with varying degree of reconditioning, repairs or renovation.

1. Someshwara Gudi, Dharwad
2. Banashankari Gudi, Amargol, between Dharwad & Hubballi
3. Chandramouleshwara Gudi, Unkal, Hubballi
4. Bhavani Shankar Gudi, Old Hubballi
5. Shambulingeshwar Gudi, Kundagol
6. Kalmeshwara Gudi, Kamadhenu
7. Basavanna Gudi, Tambur
8. Amruteshwara Gudi, Annigeri

.........

bird's eye view of Bhogasandra

Sept 2024. Bhogasandra is another home. This visit I wanted to see the place like never before. That's where my DJI Mini 2 comes handy. I launched it from Sridhar's farm and sent it towards the village flying around 40 meters above ground level.

This is Bhogasandra's main junction. The straight line road goes towards Hagalavadi, the slightly curved road to the right leads to Sagasandra.

Pulling back a bit, the village Aralikatte comes into view. It's a Ficus with long curvy branches. Under it a lot of activity happens. The most important being peeling raw betel followed by cooking it. The tree looks pretty aged, hope it lives for many years to come. Talking about Aralikatte, it's an ancient custom which is fading now.

Pulling back again, more houses come into view. Most families of this village are related, it's almost like one big family.

Pulling back more. The mobile tower comes into view, covering the entire village, more or less.

Turning around 150° Bhogasandra Kere comes into view. It's a manmade pond. Part of the road connecting Bhogasandra to the neighboring village Bommarasanahalli runs parallel to the lake 's embankment. On the shore is Siddalingeshwara Devastana which was renovated about two years ago. The white line on the horizon is the aqueduct of Yetthinahole Drinking Water Project.

Now, DJI Mini 2 is hovering over Aralikatte.

Srishar's farm is in the greenery on the top-right of this picture.

The little house sits in Sridhar's farm. Notice the bamboo cluster?

Turning to the west. About a kilometer from here is forest land. In fact a small stream is a marker between farmlands and forest land.

DJI Mini 2 has a flight time of 12 to 13 minutes. So I had get it back and replace the drained battery with a fully charged one and start a new flight. This time I sent it beyond Bhogasandra towards our farmer friend Basavrju's plantation. At the middle of this picture next to the little pond is Basavaraju's betel plantation. I wanted to see a little further but the navigation screen froze with a black n white. The drone and remote controller had lost touch, no communication between the two. It was a tense few minutes when the drone homed in. The 'return to home' feature saved my Mini 2. Back at home I discussed this issue with brother and found the cause. Trees were a barrier between the drone and RC. Basically, Sridhar's farm is a good 10 to 15 meters below the village ground level. With the drone at 30 meters high and 500 meters away, the trees got into the way. While flying longer distances, it's better to maintain higher altitude. We err. Then we learn.

Here's the bamboo cluster. The shoots were swaying gently in the wind. What a beautiful sight that was.

That's Bhogasandra Kere.

Overhead shots of neighboring fields.

A geometric pattern of a well prepared field.

That's Basavraj on his Bajaj Pulsar. Raju and I had ridden that bike to the edge of the forest to see a shrine called Bhutappana Gudi.

This is Sridhar's farm. Another farmer, Siddaramanna is ploughing the aisles. This is one way to control weeds. Unfortunately, two sides of this plantation are vacant and neglected lands covered with all kinds of vegetation which is a big source of weed seeds. Those seeds get thrown into this farmland and thrive.

Raju noticed a peacock. I followed it from a safe height. Judging by it's movements, the peacock was confused... where's that buzzing sound coming from. Not once it looked up but kept moving around,

Sunset seen from an height of 25 meters above the farmhouse.

Lastly a view of us- Srishar, his son, son's friend and I.

Do check out our short visit to Bhutappana Gudi.

......... 

Bhutappana Gudi, Bhogasandra

Sept 16th 2024. This was my third day at Sridhar's farm at Bhogasandra village. One of the resident farmers Raju turned up at the farmhouse early morning. We had a plan to visit his betelnut farm which happens to be on the other side of the village. A walk would've been great but we had to come back soon so we had to go by bike. It was a five minute ride to Raju's betelnut farm where we spent about twenty minutes. As we looked around and chatted Raju asked if I wanted to see Bhutappana Gudi. I was fine and we hopped on the bike. We were riding on dirt paths which got rougher as we went deeper towards forest land but Raju didn't let up on riding speed. Carrying a load of 160+ kilograms, Raju's Pulsar showed no sign of struggle. The ridable path ended at the base of a hillock where we parked. The tree was a stone's throw away.

Here's the tree sheltering the shrine. This tree is called Tugali Maraa in Kannada. Its Botanical name is Albizia amara , also called Mimosa amara. That's my take based on a an hour long research which landed on this page. Tuggali leaves are small and dark green. It bears whitish-yellow powder puffs with long stamens and golden pollen. Tuggali Mara is a live pharmacy; its roots, leaves and flowers are used to treat several maladies including poisonous bites.

Here's the open-air teemple- Bhutappana Gudi. Basically it's a collection of naturally polished stones, probably picked up from a stream nearby. Bhogasandra people come here by walk carrying offerings and perform simple rituals.

People have tied brass bells out of Bhakti.

That's my host for the morning Basavaraju standing next to Tuggali Maraa. His Bajaj Pulsar is somewhere on the right hand side, out of frame.

These are Tuggali leaves. I think this foliage is quite new, matured recently. These leaves can be confused with many trees like Tamarind or Copper pod tree (peltophorum ferruginea) or any other tree with similar leaves. Tuggali Mara doesn't have thorns - this is to be noted.

We must've spent 15 minutes at Bhutappana Gudi. I was taking pictures and Raju had disappeared. To my call he responded that he was looking for Kaadu Bikke Hannu, a seasonal fruit relished by kids and elders alike, even peacocks love it. Bikke Hannu is a fruit of Gardenia latifolia family. Raju couldn't find any since the season was almost done. Perhaps had we moved deeper into the woods, we might've found some. The fruit has thick skin, inside is brown pulp which can be eaten raw. Several videos show up if you search on YouTube.

That's our man- Raju. He's an expert coconut peeler. I've seen him in action. He can dehusk a coconut in 8 seconds. Not just that, he can maintain that pace for hours. One of the other famers told me that he has peeled 3000 coconuts in a day!

Here's a Bikke Hannu tree, a small tree though.

We are on the slope of this hillock. Raju asked if I wanted to explore deeper. I declined, several reasons behind it. This is off our plan. Sun was rising and blazing, we weren't carrying water. We were hungry and supposed to be picking up Ragi Rotti from Raju's home and have it with Sridhar. And last of all, I'd worn a flip-flop. We dropped the idea.

That's the neighboring hill. In the valley between the two hills flows a stream. 

We started our return journey. About a kilometer from Bhutappana Gudi is this smaller stream which feels like an oasis. We stopped for a couple of minutes to shoot pictures. This spot is good for a pinic. Perhaps, next visit we could spend a few hours here.

Bhutappana Gudi is on the other side of this stream. In fact this stream marks the border between farmlands and forest land.

That's Raju on his Pulsar.

We passed by Raju's plantation. Let me talk about it now. Raju's betelnut trees were just two years old but to my eyes they seemed like four. The plantation was almost weed free and the trees were rooted into 4 feet deep pits. The pits will be filled in gradually as the trees grow taller. That's Raju and a neighboring plantation owner.

That's Raju's rocket.

We headed back to the village, picked up Ragi Rotti & Chatni from Raju's home and reached Sridhar's farm by 9-30. All three of us famished, we attacked the box without any delay.

The following post will be dedicated to a few aerial shots of Bhogasandra farmlands, do check it out.

.........