Domed Gateway, Hampi

During my previous trip to Hampi i.e. in 2017 we discovered Bhimans Hebbagilu which is a major gateway of Hampi on its southeastern side. Later I learnt about other gateways such as the domed gateway, Talarighatta Hebbagilu, Huvina Bagilu, and Sringarada Hebbagilu. Of these I had passed through Talarighatta gateway several times while going to Vijaya Vittala Devastana. There are minor gateways and probably major ones to be discovered.

December 9, 2024
This tour was with Sridhar, my friend from Bhogasandra. It was his first visit here. We drove from Dharwad and our tour started with Agasi the western gateway and Vatika Kuparama the octagonal stepped well. Then we went to the grand temple Pattabhirama Devastana on the outskirts of Kamalapur. Then we moved on to Lokapavani the stepped tank. Five minutes walk from the tank is the domed gateway.

By the looks of the arch and dome, it is Indo Saracenic architecture.  It's an impressive structure. The white & ochre Naama markings on the walls indicate the presence of an active temple inside.

This structure reminds me of gateways are Bidar and Hyderabad.

A board planted nearby describes it as follows:

The Domed Gateway is located in the northeast near the Pattabhirarna Temple. It is around 18 metres high. designed in Indo-Islamic style of architecture. This is one of the main entrances to the city of Vijayanagara. This gateway provided access to the city of Vijayanagara from the east and the north. The square entrance has four massive arches. The semi-circular arches span from the center of the dome to the edge of its apex. The arches are decorated with lime mortar ornamentation. The arch has a square band on the upper portion. Above the square band is a semi-circular section, above which is a half-spherical dome. The Domed Gateway has spaces for guard houses adjoining it on either side of its entrance from the east. The walls of the Domed Gateway are massive and have bas-relief decorations of a fish, a snake and an elephant.

An Anjaneya Temple was constructed within this structure. It has a six-foot tall bas-relief sculpture of Anjaneya in the garbhagriha. During the Vijayanagara period, if one were traveling into the city from the east, they would first pass through the Penukonda Gateway, then through the Domed Gateway, and finally through Bhima's gateway.

Penukonda gateway is about 2.6 km by road. If a bird flew between the two gateways it would be just 500 meters.

Yes, there's an active Hanuman temple inside. Most gateways built by Hindu rulers will have a temple dedicated to Hanuman. And like most large gateways, this too has a bent path. This design slows down movement incase of any attempt to barge through the passage.

Sridhar's already inside the temple admiring the six feet tall image of Hanuman.

It's a simple semi open temple. The four pillars are clearly Vijayanagara design. It's quite possible that the deity might have been consecrated by Vyasaraja, the Madhwa philosopher who had great influence in Krishnadevaraya's court.

The passage widens into a spacious yard. On the eastern wall is a shrine dedicated to Shivalinga. The platform here indicates that a temple or a pillared hall was planned here. For some reason the shelter construction never happened. Close to the southern wall is a Yagna Kunda, a sacred pit where offerings were made to fire god Agni. There's one such pit at Bhima's gateway too.

Going towards the gateway's other end which lead into the fortified city of Hampi. Presently it's a dead end because of a reservoir embankment's presence.

The platforms flanking the passage would've been used as a toll office. Probably people transporting  goods for trade had to pay taxes here.

On the walls are several interesting images such as elephants, fishes, tortoises and reptiles. Such images can be found on most temple walls of Vijayanagara period.

Done with the tour of the domed gateway, we head out and stop for one last shot.

From here we head out in search of another ancient temple and find it amidst sugarcane fields. Unfortunately the temple gates were locked shut. We did check if there was any other way of entering but no such luck. Then we went in search of another temple called Kallara Gudi which translated to thieves temple. This is a present day name for it, probably thieves used this place as a hideout since it's located away from settlements. I feel this temple situated off Kamalapur-Daroji road is Kallara Gudi.

The side road in front of the temple goes into farm lands. I spoke to a couple of guys at the temple, they did not even know what this temple was called. 

About 800 meters from here is Penukonda gateway and I was unaware of it. To our bad luck no other local person was present around here. So close and we missed an important monument. Well, that would be for the next Hampi trip.

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