Sri Duradundishwara Punyaranya Siddasansthana, Arabhavi Mata

A few years ago I heard that Raja Mallasarja Desai, king of Kittur kingdom and husband of Rani Chennamma, died at Arabhavi Mata. His mortal remains are said to be buried within the Mata premises. Besides the Mata's own history, Raja Mallasarja's connection makes this even more important place. A visit to Arabhavi Mata was on the list of places to visit until the day we planned to visit Hukkeri. Since we were traveling by car I added a few historical places to the plan- Arabhavimata, Chikaleshwara Gudi and prehistoric dolmen at Konnur.

September 23, 2022

We left Dharwad around 6-15 AM, drove straight to Yelimunnoli, a village near Hukkeri town. During that visit, November 2015, I happened to see the three Mohamadden tombs of Hukkeri built in the XVI Century. The purpose of the visit was to meet Pushpa's relatives at Yelimunnoli. Around noon we left Yelimunnoli / Hukkeri and headed towards Gokak, Arabhavi Mata was our destination. The monastery is adjacent to Ghataprabha-Gokak highway. We turn off the main road,, into a side road which lead to the monastery. This imposing gateway comes into view. I had least expected to see a building of this size. Wow! This is like a palace's gateway.

The board over the doorway states the formal name of this monastery- Sri Duradundishwara Punyaranya Siddasansthana, Arabhamvimata. People commonly refer to this place as Arabhavi Mata. It is said that this monastery is 500 to 600 years old. The present head of this monastery is the eleventh seer. This structure made of dressed sandstone blocks seems to be approximately 200 to 300 years old.

View through the gateway... The gateway is a sheltered structure with platform on either sides. Probably in the olden days there used to be guards stationed here. The pillared structure is the main shrine of this premises, its is the temple dedicated to the founder i.e. Shivayogi Duradundishwara. Inside the temple is his Samadhi.

In the present there aren't any sentries guarding the entrance. However, a part of this gateway is being used as a post office. So this is officially Arabhavi Mata post office with its own pin code 591310. Its always nice to see a red postbox in this age of digital technology.

The Samadhi building is an impressive structure. First of all, has a high base, its almost 6' high. Then the pillars & beams, over them is the roof. The overall height could a little over 20 feet. The line of pillars goes around  perimeter. I'm guessing there are approximately 44 pillars. Between the pillars and the sanctum wall is the circumbulatory path i.e. people who wish to go around the Gadduge can walk in that space. Another interesting thing is the pair of identical idols on either sides. They are idols of larger than life, man sitting cross-legged in a seat.

A quick turn around to take a look at the inner side of the gateway and a row of tiles roof rooms. These rooms seems to be the seer's residence-office. This courtyard would be covered with temporary shelters during the annaul fair or any special occasion. 

A diagonal view of the Sri Duradundishwara Gadduge. The pillars are more or less identical except for minor variations in murals. We couldn't enter the steps and go up to the sanctum entrance since a team of men were washing the walls and floor of the circumbulation path. Cleaning was part of preparation for Navaratri. Until now I hadn't paid much attention to the pair of larger than life idols.

For a moment I was taken back on noticing the genitals. There must be a story behind these idols... well built, huge belly, handlebar mustache, a turban, saffron cloth around the neck, a lungi ties around the waist and genitals exposed. I was curious about the unusual idols but people were really busy, didn't feel like interrupting them. Hopefully one day I'll unravel the story behind these dressed yet naked depiction.

Since the Gadduge was out of bounds for the next few hors we decided to check out Raja Mallasarja's memorial which was behind the main shrine.

The rear part of the Gadduge building seems to have several rooms in two levels. I guess these are rooms for the priests and other staff here. Probably few of the rooms are store rooms as well. I think the monastery had immense financial support in the past, probably still has.

Behind the main shrine are several smaller structures. Inside this long building with two doors are Gadduge of seers of this monastery. I took a quick peep inside, there were three or four Gadduge inside. Opposite this is a smaller shrine, not sure of the deity inside. 

The board planted here reads the names of the eleven seers of this monastery. Following is the transcript of the board:

ಶ್ರೀಮನ್ ನಿರಂಜನ ಜಗದ್ಗುರು ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರ ಪುಣ್ಯಾರಣ್ಯ ಸಿದ್ದ ಸಂಸ್ಥಾನ ಮಠ ಆರಭಾಂವಿ 

ಶ್ರೀ ಮಠದ ಪೀಠಾಧಿಪತಿಗಳು:-

1. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಆದಿಕರ್ತೃ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

2. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಕೊಳ್ಳದಾರ್ಯರು ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

3. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಸಿದ್ದರಾಮ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

4. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಘಟವಾಳಯ್ಯ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

5. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಸಿದ್ದಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

6. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಹಗ್ಗದಾರ್ಯ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

7. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಶಿವಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

8. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಇಮ್ಮಡಿ ಸಿದ್ದಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

9. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಮಹಾಂತ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

10. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಶಿವಾನಂದ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

11. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಸಿದ್ದಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

This Mantapa is Raja Mallasarja memorial. The memorial has a fresh look, definitely a recent paint work. However I'm not sure how old the Mantapa is. Anyway, this is a historical site of importance.

Inside the Mantapa is a stone slab on which Raja Mallasarja is said to have drawn his final breath. Thanks to the people who took the initiative of preserving this slab. 

A board planted next to the Mantapa briefly states the last days of Raja Mallasarja in a few lines. Transcript of the board:

ರಾಜಾ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜರ ಕಟ್ಟೆ

ಭಾರತದ ಸ್ವತಂತ್ರ ಸಂಗ್ರಾಮದ ಬೆಳ್ಳಿ ಚುಕ್ಕೆ ಕಿತ್ತೂರು ರಾಣಿ ಚೆನ್ನಾಮ್ಮಾಜಿಯ ಪತಿ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜ ದೇಸಾಯಿ. ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರ ಕಾರುಣ್ಯದ ಕಂದನಾಗಿ ಭಕ್ತಿ ಶಿರೋಮಣಿ ಜಂಗಮ ಪ್ರಿಯ ಧಾರ್ಮ ಪಾರಾಯದ ಕ್ರಾಂತಿಕಾರಿ ಪುರುಷ. ಇವರು ತಮ್ಮ ಕೊನೆಯ ಕಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರರ ಪಾದಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಈ ದೆಹ ಲೀನವಾಗಲಿ ಎಂದು ಸಂಕಲ್ಪ ಮಾಡಿದರು. ಆಗ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜರನ್ನು ಪೇಶ್ವೇಯರು ಪೂಣೆಯ ಕಾರಾಗ್ರಹದಲ್ಲಿ ಬಂದಿಸಿಟ್ಟಿದ್ದರು. ದೊರೆಗಳ ದೇಹ ಸ್ಥಿತಿ ಹದೆಗೆಟ್ಟಾಗ ಅವರನ್ನು ಬಿಡುಗಡೆ ಮಾಡಿದರು. ಪೂಣೆಯಿಂದ ಅರಭಾವಿ ಮಠಕ್ಕೆ ಕರೆತರಲಾಯಿತು. ಈ ಆಘಾತದ ಸುದ್ದಿ ತಿಳಿದು ರಾಣಿ ರುದ್ರಮ್ಮ, ರಾಣಿ ಚನ್ನಮ್ಮ ಕಿತ್ತೂರಿನಿಂದ ಧಾವಿಸಿ ಬಂದರು. ಆಗ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜ ದೇಸಾಯಿಯರು ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರರ ದರ್ಶನ ಆಶೀರ್ವಾದ ಪಡೆದು, ಪಾದೋದಕ ಅಂಬಲಿ ಸ್ವೀಕರಿಸಿ ಈ ಕಟ್ಟೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಲಿಂಗೈಕ್ಯರಾದರು (ಕ್ರಿ ಶ ೧೮೧೬)  ಅಂದಿನಿಂದ ಈ ಸ್ಥಳ ಕಿತ್ತೂರಿನ ಇತಿಹಾಸದಲ್ಲಿ ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಕೇಂದ್ರಬಿಂದುವಾಗಿದೆ.

Below is the rough translation:

Mallasarja Desai, husband of Kittur Rani Chennammaji, is the silver dot of India's freedom struggle. He was a great disciple of Shivayogi Duradundishwara. He had resolved to spend his last days in the company of His Holiness Shivayogi Duradundishwara. Raja Mallasarja was imprisoned at Pune jail by the Peshwa. When Raja Mallasarja's health deteriorated he was released from Pune prison and brought to Arabhavimata. Hearing this news, his queens Rudramma and Chennamma rushed from Kittur to Arabhavimata. At that time, with the divine grace of Shivayogi Duradundishwara, Raja Mallasarja passed away on this stone bench i.e. in 1816 CE. From that day this remained as an important spot in the history of Kittur kingdom.

The writeup doesn't say that Raja Mallasarja's body was buried here. In earlier times, bodies were buried without delay. It should be okay to assume that it was also the case in Raja Mallasarja's case. The shortest route from Arabhavimata to Kittur is 80+ kilometers with two river crossings. In those days it would easily required a day or two. Transporting a body wouldn't be an option then. Also Mallasarja's queens were present with the body. I guess his last rites were performed at Arabhavimata itself.

This is another Mantapa next to Raja Mallasarja memorial. This seems to be a recent construction, probably 80 to 90 years old. I think this was used for meetings between Swamiji and other important people..

Another important building here is this simple looking structure. This is a memorial to a cow which was here during the time of Shivayogi Duradundishwara. The board seen in this pictures reads as below:

ಆಕಳ ಗದ್ದುಗೆ

ಆದಿ ಕರ್ತ್ಯು ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರರಿಗೆ ಆಕಳು ಸತತ ಹಾಲು ಕೊಡುತ್ತಿತ್ತು. ಯಾವತ್ತೂ ಗರ್ಭ ಧರಿಸುತ್ತಿರಲಿಲ್ಲ. ದೇವಲೋಕದ ನಂದಿನಿ ಇದಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಇದರ ನೆನಪಿಗಾಗಿ ಈ ಮಂದಿರ ನಿರ್ಮಾಣವಾಗಿದೆ.

The Swamiji considered the cow to be divine like the celestial Nandini. Hence it was buried and a building erected in her memory. In the sanctum is an idol of a cow. The team of men cleaning the premises washed this shrine as well. Truly a very dedicated group of people serving this ancient monastery.

Lastly, lets take a quick look of the neighboring shrine namely Sri Kotturu Basaveshwara Devastana. The temple enclosure has two entrances, one in the east and other in the north. The northern entrance is linked to Sri Duradundishwara premises. The larger gateway is the one shown earlier i.e. to the monastery and the smaller gateway is the entrance to Kotturu Basaveshwara Gudi.

This the rear of the temple, the ancient sandstone walls and stepped Shikhara over the Garbhagriha. The didn't take pictures of the front because it was too crowded with metal railings and grills. The deity of this temple is Nandi. The eastern entrance of this enclosure is a smaller version of the monastery entrance.

Three sides of the enclosure is sheltered like this. This is a feature of our ancient temples where travelers could visit the temple and rest. Within this enclosure is a small shrine dedicated to Gangambike, wife of Jagatjyoti Basaveshwara. During the Kalyani revolution, Gagambike along with Akka Nagamma, Channabasaveshwara and other Shivasharanas travel southwards pursued by Bijjala's army. The Shivasharanas were on the run to save Vachana Sahitya. many were martyred during the struggle. In a major battle at Kadrolli, a village on Malaprabha north bank, Bijjala's soldiers were defeated by Shivasharanas, Bijjala's soldiers gave up the pursuit. A short distance from Kadrolli is Gangambike memorial.

One of the monastery staff asked us to take Anna Prasada which was served close to the monastery kitchen. A simple tasty lunch of sajjaka, rice and thilisaru was on the menu. There were a few students and teachers from nearby school and college. It was a satisfying meal, my hunger was taken care of at the right time. Anna Dasoha is one thing that our temples & monasteries have in practice for centuries. The institutions receive discreet donations from common people. Isn't that a wonderful part our religious culture.

After lunch we stayed in the monastery for about half an hour and left. Our next destination was Konnur to see Chikaleshwara Devastana and the prehistoric dolmen.

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Moorusavira Matha, Hubballi

Moorusavira Matha is a Lingayath monastery established in XII Century. Within the monastery's premises are the tombs of monastery heads over the centuries including the founder Shri Gurusiddeshwara Swami. The monastery's name is attributed to the visit of Sri Channabasaveshwara (Jagadguru Basaveshwara's nephew) with a group of three thousand Shivasharanas visit to here. The Kannada phrase for 'three thousand' is 'mooru savira'. Hence the name Moorusavira Matha.

After Jagadguru Basaveshwara quits the post of minister at King Bijjala's court and moves to Kudala Sangama for good, the king's army starts subduing the revolutionary movement of Shivasharanas. To escape the persecution, Shivashranas leave Kalyana along with their collection of literary work. Channabasaveshwara and his group with a plan to go to Ulavi (in the jungles of Uttara Kannada) come to Dharwad, where they stay at Ulavi Basaveswara Gudi. At some point of time before going to Ulavi, the group also happens to visit Shri Gurusiddeshwara Swami's monastery at Hubballi.

Moorusavira Matha runs educational institutions and conducts Anna Dasoha. However, the monastery is the news for wrong reasons for a number of times, thanks to the internal conflicts which spill out. Hoping the Matha members reform and carry out better social service.

February 18, 2020
My day started off by dropping Pushpa and her friend Akshita at Maharani's College near Siddharoodha Matha. I hired an auto-rickshaw, went to Sri Bhavani Shankar Devastana and then came to Moorusavira Matha. The last time I visited it was early 2010. The monastery seems to have changed little. This is the main building which houses the founder's tomb (Gadduge) and the seer's living quarters. The dominant feature of the facade are the building height wooden columns. Each of these columns are made of single pieces. This hall has a dozen such columns. Besides the wooden columns, the other attractions are the detailed wood sculptures and tasteful tile work on the floor.

In this building is the main shrine i.e. the tomb of Shri Gurusiddeshwara Swami. The small door is one of two entrances the underground shrine. Photography is prohibited in there. The tomb is enclosed in a stainless steel cage. Right above the shrine is the dome which forms the roof. Floor to dome is around 30 feet. Around the shrine is space for people to circumambulate and a also a seating platform. The shrine is decorated with fresh flowers and Vibhuti. An oil lamp is always burning. A young priest is present at the shrine when its kept open for Bhaktas. The shrine has a serene ambiance.

This is the open hall where Swamiji gives Darshan to Bhaktas. During my previous visit which was tie for late afternoon Pooja. Prior to the pooja Shehnai was played by two men. The sound was heartwarming. I think the vibrations of the music sanctifies the environment.

The central door links to the inner chambers. Above the grand door frame is a picture of Jagadguru Basaveshwara. On the platform is a throne like chair with red velvet and lions on its arm-rests.

The grand door jamb and the grand chair. The jamb is a heavy assembly of teak wood richly carved. Wonder who the artists are.

Lord Ganapati, the remover of obstacles adorns the frame. The seated Ganesha features four arms and a spiraled trunk. Ganesha's Vaahan Mushak is also present here. The tightly packed floral art is well done, the repetitions are consistent.

A quick look at one of the two lions on the arm rest. The creator had fixed glass marbles in the eye sockets which actually is effectively creating a pair of watchful eyes.

The building seems to be built early XX Century. The walls and floors are covered with expensive tiles. There are four windows which are covered with gold painted Jali (mesh).

Two of the four Jalis. The architect made sure the monastery had a grand look and had it built with good quality stuff so that it has a lasting grand look. Take a close look at the Jali on left hand side. At the bottom is a Shivalinga and Nandi, at its top is a Kirtimukha. I'm suspecting they are woodwork covered in golden paint.

The column faces are plain but the top portions exhibit rich work. For some reasons these beautiful wooden pillars have been covered in oil paint. They could've polished and left as it it.. nothing to beat the natural look of wood grains.

In the front yard is a life size statue of Jagadguru Basavanna riding a horse. Basavanna is depicted in one of the four ways-

• standing with one arm raised and index finger pointing skywards
• sitting on a chair with Aikya Mantapa in the background
• riding a horse in royal attire befitting a minister
• sitting cross-legged with scripture in one hand and right hand raised 

The white building is the second gateway of the monastery complex. Renovation work was going on. Somehow, both my visits have coincided with construction work. In the background is the clock tower over the main entrance.

This is the inner view of the arched gateway and clock tower. These buildings are let out generating revenue to the Matha. Yes, a Matha needs funds to carry out its responsibilities.

As seen from outside, on Victoria road. Moorusavira Mata's clock tower is a landmark in Halae Hubballi. During my last visit the clock was a simple white square with black numbers and hands. The present clock is not in tune with the architecture and it doesn't seem to be working. Hoping the sponsor gets it fixed.

Having done with our tour, I told the auto-rickshaw driver Lava (apparently his twin brother's name is Kusha) that we have a cup of tea. We found a small shop serving hot idli-chatni, in fact that was the only snack. We had idlis and tea. That was a nice break. We headed towards Siddharoodha Matha, Lava chattering all the way.

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