Jan 15, 2022

trek to Sri Ramlingeshwara Devastana part-3

Part-1 and Part-2 of this article covered the walk to Ramteerth and an overall look of the temple site. We have 3 temples here- two temples are close together, and the third one is a stone's throw away. These two are the main temples whose construction seems complete.

The third temple which stands about 70 to 80 feet away is incomplete even though there's a Shivalinga idol in the sanctum. As you see only the Garbhagudi walls are done. The Antharala walls are still incomplete. The entire structure lacks any kind of roof. Also, as per my observations there are no inscriptions at the site.

The smaller temple is not really small. The front porch itself is six feet high. Overall the temple could be 13' to 14' high. The 'porch' can be considered as a Mukhamantapa which connects directly to the Garbhagudi. I'm guessing this temple was constructed first and then the bigger temple.

Architecturally both temples are same, The Shikhara are stepped and tapered. The Shikhara crown are similar, may be the sizes are different. Lets go around the temple once.

The ground behind the temple slopes down giving an interesting view. Usually temples are built on level ground but this site is quite special in that aspect. Talking of the terrain, one must see the temple on a ledge of a sandstone hill near Gajendragad which is a Chalukyan creation.

Like I said the ground really is steep. Directly behind the temple is a layer of dirt and boulders covering the monolith below. Rest of the hill is mostly exposed rock.

On the right hand side of the temple there's a layer of dirt. I feel this dirt bank was man-made to facilitate a flower garden for the shrine.

The temple, pond and garden area.
This temple has three entrances one each on the eastern, southern and northern sides. Unlike other Kadamba temples, this temple doesn't have balustrades at the entrances, instead a pair of platforms flank the passage. The temple floor is also raised from the rock-bed. This entrance seen here is the southern.

Stepping into the temple ...this is the view of the Antharala (vestibule connecting the Sabhamantapa and Garbhagudi) through the Sabhmantapa. The columns appear whitish- that's the remaining coat of lime. I hope someone scrubs the lime away and restore the original stone look. At the vestibule entrance are four pillars, one pair of bigger pillars and the inner pair are slimmer. The slimmer pair of pillars reminds me of Uttarakumara Gudi at Tambur village which also is a Kadamba creation.

A diagonal view of the Sabhmantapa. Flanking the Antharala entrance are four niches, two on each side. Inside the niches are idols of other gods.. Ganesha, Nagadevas & few others I couldn't recognise.

The Garbhagudi frame is simple, however the floor just next to the threshold is decorated with floral art in stone. Also a little idol of Basavanna sits on the vestibule floor. The idol looks quite crude, meaning the features aren't sharp. It is said that ancient sculptors sculpted idols of Nandi in a single day i.e. from dawn to dusk irrespective of the physical size. This I heard first at Lepakshi from a local guide. In case anything remains, its left incomplete for good.

The Ramlinga. During my first visit here i.e. Jan 2010 it was Sankranti day. A few local men were performing pooje in a traditional way. The idol and Garbhagudi were washed with water, idol adorned with a garland of white flowers, an oil lamp glowing softly and incense burning. I think the men gave me pooja prasad. This time the Garbhagudi was clean but no flowers as such. I got a few Thumbe flowers and placed them on the main deity and other idols too.

This is the view of the eastern side from the Antharala. Just next to the eastern entrance is the water pond. When the water level is at its highest it could be just 2 or 3 below the temple floor. With this I'm done seeing the temple. I move on to the third temple, the incomplete one.

This is one picture in which all three temples are visible separately i.e. their views are not overlapping. In the background is Machigad hill, amongst the thick vegetation are ruins of an ancient fort. The third temple was still in the early stage. I think the construction went on stages like this- 1. Garbhagudi, Antharala & Shikhara, and 2. add a Mukhamantapa. 


Side view of the third temple. Like most small & medium temple built by the Kadambas the exterior walls are plain. The temples are well built and elegant seven though they have plain looking walls. The Shikhara is what takes care of the temple's beauty. To name a few temples of Kadamba in this region-
  1. Halasi group of temples
  2. Thatteshwar Mahadev Gudi near Nandgad
  3. temples at Sonda fort
  4. Uttarakumara Gudi near Tambur
  5. temples on the banks of Haliyal fort water tank
The front-side view. None of these temples required a foundation because they were built on a rock hill. I think the rulers & temple builders had plans to construct more temples here. Every new king may be obligated to have a temple built. For that matter not just kings, even ministers or army chiefs or rich merchants had temples built. For some reason the site became dormant but good thing is that the temples are well preserved.

The front view. The planned size of this temple seems to be same as the main temple here.
The deity is another Linga. Not sure if it's called Ramlinga or Shivalinga. Since this place is called Ramtheerth this could be another Ramlinga. Looking at this temple, I feel ancient builders installed the deity first and then built the structure around it.

In the water pond is a small collection of idols. The largest piece here is a piece of the Shikhara, which is fixed in the front like a forehead. On the far left is an incomplete and damaged sculpture of Vishnu. The idol on the right is a standing Eshwara holding a Trishula. The idol is damaged hence its not used for worship. Apart from these idols, I haven't seen any other pieces of sculptures here.

Having done wit the temples, we can now check out the surroundings... rocks, hill slopes, other hills and paddy fields in the plains below. A very interesting landscape here. If it were earlier, around sunrise, there's a possibility of seeing some interesting birds. 

We'll check out the natural beauty of Ramtheerth in the following post- trek to Sri Ramlingeshwara Devastana part-4.
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