Sep 10, 2016

Panchalingeshwara Gudi, Sedam

This small town today is known for the cement plant but it has its own history. Some of the ancient temples are Panchalingeshwara Gudi, Manvikeshwara Gudi and Bananti Kambha, Jain Basadi, Kottala Basaveshwara Gudi, Madhava Trilingeshwara Eshwara temple, Jwalamukhi statues, Ganapa Navakoti Narayana Temple, Karadagiri Hanuman Temple, Laxmi Narayan temple, Hingulambika temple and few mosques and Dargahs. It is said that there are Jain cave ruins possibly created during Rashtrakuta times.

July 2, 2016

Our journey started early morning; first planned stop was Sedam. I wanted to check out the ancient temples of this place which was known as Sedimba long time back. We reached Sedam by 8-30; on my list were Laxmi Narayan temple, Panchalingeshwara Gudi, Manvikeshwara Gudi and Bananti Kambha, Jain Basadi and Kottala Basaveshwara Gudi. We entered the town, drove past main bus-stand heading towards railway station. As we drove deeper into the town, streets got narrower.. we found Laxmi Narayan temple; only two pujari were there; neither had any info about this temple's history. By the way, the temple though old had too many modern touches. We moved on towards Panchalingeshwara Gudi; the temple is located on slightly elevated part of the old town, it was crazy driving through the narrow streets, barely wide enough for a car and bike to pass each other. We managed to reach Panchalingeshwara Gudi, the abode of five Linga.

This temple is located close to the eastern edge of Sedam town where a stream flows in a curve. Turning our attention to the temple complex. It a group of four temples. The complex's gateway is richly decorated with a an arch, pair of Dwarapalas guarding the entrance. As we step in, there's one temple straight ahead...

..and another on the right hand side.

This how close both temples are. As you see both temples's entrances are similar, both have Dwarapalas of their own but while one pair is male the other pair is female. It is said these temples were built during Kalyana Chalukyas time.

Visitors are greeted by Dwarapalas covered in heavy ornaments from head to toe. Wonder if the sculptures were purely made from imagination or if there were models to replicate. Anyway, the sculptures of these temples are amazing!

This is the four pillared Mantapa; beyond is the vestibule's mesh. The Mantapa's pillar design is pretty complex with so many sections.. square, octagonal and circular. Some sections are decorated with intricate designs.. designs copied by jewellery designers of our times.

Another view of the Mantapa.

One of the pillars had an interesting sculpture.. five men with seven legs. Cool imagination. When you look at any of the men, it seems to have a pair of legs.. don't look at the feet :)

Nandi mounted on a pedestal.

Every work in these temples have carried out with great care and attention. Now, looking at this Basavanna, see the creases in the neck skin and veins sticking out on the snout. Just too good! Even this Basavanna is pampered with heavy chain of bells around its neck and shoulder.

A big Ganapati sitting peacefully with an oil lamp burning besides him. Notice the pair of peacocks on the pillar.

A very complex ceiling, Notice the central sculpture.. Never seen anything this complex before. No words to describe this beautiful work.

This is the third temple with a small idol of Linga placed on the Garbhagudi floor (see inset).

Here too Sabha Mantapa has four columns. I loved the upper portion of these pillars. To create the disc with ridges is seriously tough work.

This the fourth temple, seems like it was restored recently.

The complex is pretty compact with temples tightly packed together. There were few pieces of sculptures placed about, found one of them interesting (see inset). Temple care-takers shouldn't have painted these walls.. I heard lime eats into stones and weakens it eventually. Only plastered walls require a coat of 'Sunna.'

Sedam must have been an important place during Kalyana Chalukyan times. Glad to have seen this temple. Worth the time and effort.

Next on our list were Manvikeshwara Gudi & Bananti Kambha and Jain Basadi.

.........

Sep 3, 2016

Oldest Tree of Bijapur

Ever since I saw the first Baobab at Savanur, I've been researching Baobab trees across India and found some 27 in all. Of those 27, two are at Bijapur - one tree is located next to Hazart Hander Shah Ali Hussain Dargah near Ibrahim Roza and another tree at a mosque in Yogapur locality.

July 2; we were on our way from Hyderabad to Dharwad, we'd planned to touch few historical spots en route.. Bijjanahalli, Sedam, Chittapur and Ferozabad.  We arrived at Bijapur around 8-45 PM.

July 3, 2016
We started our tour of Bijapur by 8-AM. First was Ibrahim Rouza. We inquired about the Baobab tree. Not many people were aware of the ancient tree. But then the ticket collector said the tree dried up and collapsed few months ago and nothing was left of it now. The tree was located near a well and we could see the spot. The approach road was dug up hence the spot was not reachable easily. I trusted the TC's words and dropped the idea of visiting the spot. A caretaker suggested us to visit Yogapur instead.

We reached Yogapur (locals say Ogapur) by noon, locating the Dargah wasn't a problem. Happy to be looking at the tree. Compared to trees of Savanur and Golconda, this tree was slightly smaller but had a lovely shape.. like a mushroom.

Pushpa standing next to the tree trunk..

Gol Gumbaz sitting on the horizon.

Branches spread out equally in all directions.

The dark green lobed leaves seems to be pretty young. Probably 2 months old. There were buds and flowers too.. off-white colored.

Buds are ball-shaped and the cup-shaped flowers have thick petals.

A closer look at a flower being pollinated by a bee.

As we admired the tree, few local people appeared on the scene. Of them one was middle-aged. Sayed was one of the care-takers of the Dargah. He had good knowledge about this tree's medicinal properties.. its leaves and fruits are used to cure health problems. In fact he suggested us to try chewing a leaf which we did. The leaves had a mildly sweet taste.

I mentioned to them about the Baobab at Savanur. In fact Pushpa showed them the video of Savanur trees. Sayed was friendly and spoke about how Sufi ascetics brought Baobab saplings from Africa and planted them in India. In fact these trees are found where Muslim kings ruled.

This lovely Gumbaz is the tomb of three Sayed Shah Imamuddin Quadri, Hazrath Sayed Shah Abdul Gafoor Quadri Shaheed Peeran and Sayeda Bibi Amatal Haleem.

Here's a short video of the tomb and its green companion.


Here is a list of known Baobab trees of India-

  1. Hilltop Nightclub, Vagator, Goa
  2. Cabo Raj Bhavan, Dona Paula, Goa
  3. Quepem, Goa
  4. Bamboo Motels, Goa
  5. Mahalakshmi Gudi premises, Martur
  6. near Ibrahim Roza, Bijapur, Karnataka (this tree died a few years ago)
  7. Dodda Hunashe Matha, Savanur, Karnataka
  8. Near the aquarium Lalbagh, Bengaluru
  9. Attapur, Hyderabad
  10. Purana Qilla, Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telangana
  11. Vansthalipuram, Hyderabad, Telangana
  12. near Chappel Road, Hyderabad, Telangana
  13. Ranganath temple at Nanakramguda Hyderabad, Telangana
  14. Uppal in Chengicherla Reserve Forests, Hyderabad, Telangana
  15. Shivalaya on Balachandruni Guttalu, Nalagonda, Telangana
  16. Nellore, Andhrapradesh
  17. Theosophist Society Gardens, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
  18. The American College campus, Madurai, Tamil Nadu
  19. Chinmaya Vidyalaya's campus at Ilanthope, Rajapalayam, TN
  20. Mangaliawas near Ajmer, Rajasthan
  21. Vadodara, Gujarat
  22. Dayapur, Gujarat
  23. Kutch, Gujarat
  24. Bhanagar, Gujarat
  25. Baroda, Gujarat
  26. Victoria Garden, Ahmedabad, Gujarat
  27. Mulund, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  28. Byculla zoo, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  29. Outside the Vasai fort, Maharashtra
  30. Tilak road and Ghole road, Pune, Maharastra
  31. near Aurangabad, Maharashtra
  32. Mandavgad or Mandu, Madhya Pradesh
  33. near Sangam, left bank of the Ganga, Prayag, Uttar Pradesh 
  34. Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park, Bihar
.........