a few relief sculptures at Chitradurga Kote

There are a few places which require more than one visit to see the place in detail. For example- Aihole, Badami and Hampi. These places have multiple monuments spread around a large area hence it requires multi-day trip or multiple visits. Now, one other place place that requires multiple visits is Chitradurga fort. I say that because the fort itself encompasses several hills, valleys and countless rock formations. And within that rugged terrain are several monuments built over centuries. In the past it was like a town within the fort having gateways, turrets, bastions, pathways, water tanks, canal system, a gun powder mill, oil tanks, temples, a mint, palaces, barracks, and maybe prison too. Apparently there was a stage for cultural events. So far I've visited Chitradurga fort 3 times yet a lot remains to be seen. Also, the time of the day is important to get glare-free pictures and to not tire out quickly. Early mornings would be ideal. One can get good shots in late afternoon light but one must be prepared to tolerate the heat radiating from the rocks. All my visits were late morning to little past noon. Here are few pictures from my last visit that's in March 2014.

A relief sculpture shrine dedicated to Shiva, Parvati and Nandi. Small are the sculptures but the details are admirable. Notice the Kirtimukha on the arches. The Shivalinga arch is damaged hence the Kirtimukha is not there.

The Hoysala emblem depicted by this warrior-lion duel. I guess this sculpture dates back to Hoysala period. Below the emblem is a pair of elephants, they too seem to be engaged in a fight. On the right is another sculpture of a warrior astride a horse with a weapon raised up. This seems like a memorial of some battle.

A fish couple. Relief sculptures of fishes, tortoises, lizards, elephants and other creatures can be seen at monuments of Hoysala and Vijayanagara period. This reminds me of relief sculptures at the temple complex on Vindhyagiri at Shravanabelegola, Malyavanta Raghunataha Devatsana, Krishnadevaraya memorial at Anegundi and Veerabhadra Devastana at Lepakshi. These are just a few examples.

Then we have another fish pair facing in opposite directions.

Another fish couple. A woman squatting on a platform. Usually this sculpture is seen on outer walls of temples.

A niche in one of the massive walls. It could be a few inches high, max one foot high. This is about nine to ten feet from the ground level. Wondering what the purpose was.

Unlike the previous niche with the rounded top, here's another niche with a pointed top. This too is about eight to nine feet above the ground.

Next we have an unintended sculpture created by the impact of a canon ball fired into the fort. I heard that there are many more impact marks on other parts of the fort. I must look for them during my next visit.

Lastly, a life-size sculpture of a woman offering her Namaskara. I have no idea who this idol depicts. Is it a Hindu goddess or a member of one of the royal families that ruled Chitradurga. The idol is being worshipped to this day, so it is of importance. Must discover the details.

Let me end this post here. For the next week's post I have thoughts of posting a few more unpublished pictures of fortifications & rock formations.

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story of Kirtimukha

Kirtimukha at Ikkeri Aghoreshwara Devastana

Even after hundreds of temple visits Kirtimukha remained mysterious apart from the assumption that it's there to cast off evil eyes. Those ferocious faces popping eyes are bound to keep evil-eyes. However, the question of how it came into being stayed on.

Ikkeri Aghoreshwara Devastana

The mystery was addressed to an extent by a YouTube short video titled Kirtimukha: the glorious face at the temple gate in which Sadhguru (Jaggi Vasudev) narrates a story which goes like this:

Every Indian temple there is a face which is eating up its own arms which is called as the Kirtimukha. It once happened a certain Yogi too full of himself came and saw Shiva simply sitting there and he looked at him and provoked him with abuse. Shiva did not respond. Then he physically poked him and said you're simply sitting there because you're afraid of me. This went beyond point of irritation. So Shiva plucked a hair from his head and made a demon out of it. And he told the demon "Eat this Yogi. Eat him up. He should not be walking this planet."

The demon grew up within minutes and became huge and started chasing the yogi. Yogi was terrified. Then of course he came and fell at Shiva's feet and please save me. Don't let this demon eat me. Then Shiva immediately changed his mind and said "okay just leave him let him go." Then the yogi went away terrified.

Then the demon was standing there burning with hunger because he was created just to eat. So he said, "What am I supposed to do?" Shiva was already becoming still. He said, "You eat yourself." And then before Shiva could turn around and look at him, he started eating himself up. When he looked at him, everything of his body was gone. Only his face and two arms were left. So he looked at this "how quickly you ate yourself up. Only the face is left. You are the most glorious face. You are above all gods." 

It is from this that even today in almost every Indian temple there is a face which is eating up its own arms which is called as the Kirtimukha the glorious face.

Here's another example, a Kirtimukha from Bhimeshwara Devastana, Neelagunda.

Neelagunda Bhimeshwara Devastana

And a series of Kirtimukha at Aghoreshwara Devastana, Ikkeri where one tier of the temple base is dedicated to the glorious face.

Sadhguru's story has spiked my interest. During my future visits to temples, I'll surely pay more attention to Kirtimukha, it's many forms created by the ancient sculptures of our land.

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Sculpture of Kurukshetra battle

The archeological museum at Kamalapur has a huge collection of sculptures, mostly from Vijayanagara period. Kamalapur museum, like most ASI has two sections- external and internal. This is one of few museums which allows photography in both sections.

I've posted one of the artifacts here- the sculpture of Arjun aiming an arrow. The flag on his chariot having an image of Hanuman on it is called Kapidhwaj. The charioteer should be Krishna. The other two characters on the chariot is a question to me. 

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bas relief sculptures at Vijaya Vittala Devastana

Here are three bas relief sculptures on columns of Kalyana Manatapa inside Vijaya Vittala Devastana. There are several of sculptures on the faces of columns of the pillared hall. 

The first one depicts Matsya Avatar the first of ten avatars of Vishnu.

The second one shows two identical Vanara brothers Vali and Sugreeva about to start their fight. In this fight Vali dies but not by Sugreeva's hands. An arrow shot by Sri Rama pierces Vali's chest and eventually dies.

The last image is the scene of Hanuman wrecking havoc with Rakshasa soldiers in Lanka. During the mission of finding Sita, Hanuman had had several battles with the Rakshasas before setting Lanka ablaze and fleeing Lanka.

There are more such sculptures depicting characters & scenes from Hindu legends. I guess this was one of the educational methods employed during the ancient times.

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