What to see in Dharwad district?

Until 1997, Dharwad district was one of the largest districts of Karnataka. It was one of the prominent districts too. It was split into 3 parts forming two new districts - Gadag and Haveri.  Dharwad district consists of four talukas namely Hubli, Kalghatgi, Kundgol and Navalgund. The two prominent cities are Dharwad and Hubli; while the former was known for its educational institutions and latter was more of a trading and medical center. However, with only 22 kms between them, they are referred to as twin cities. In the recent past, the twin cities have grown rapidly, in way they have competed with each other and both have seen lot of changes.

Dharwad city is situated on the border line where Malnad meets Bayaluseeme i.e. hilly terrain of Western Ghats and the black-soil plains. Dharwad has an interesting history going back 900 years. Below are few pictures (caption in clockwise) and a list of places to see in Dharwad district.

Ficus Krishnae tree, Amargol Banashankari temple, Dharwad fort gateway, Ulavi Basaveshwara temple.

Someshwara temple, Basel Mission church, Sadan Kari, Tapovan

Siddarooda Matha, Unkal Chandramouleshwara temple, Kundagol Shambulingeshwara temple, Teachers Training College

Muruga Matha, Thakur pedha box, Amminabavi cave temple, Regional Science Center

1. Babusingh Thakur Pedha shop - the iconic sweet maker of Dharwad established in the XIX Century. Happy events are marked with the presence of pedhas.
2. Basel Mission Church - Probably the oldest church in Dharwad was established in 1836.
3. Bendre Bhavan - A memorial to Jnanapith awardee Shri Dattatraya Ramachandra Bendre (Da Ra Bendre) one of the foremost poets of Karnataka and India. Bendre Bhavan is situated just across Sadankeri.
4. Botanical Garden of Karnataka University is a home to rare plant species. One of the main attractions is Krishnae Ficus trees and pine cone trees. This is also home to variety of birds and insects.
5. Collection of ancient sculptures at Police Headquarters campus, opposite residential school.
6. Dattatreya Gudi - a temple built during British times in Maratha architecture. Da Ra Bendre was a regular visitor to this temple. Within the temple premises is a Samskrutha Shale (Sanskrit school).
7. Dharwad Regional Science Center, KUD - a museum which makes learning enjoyable, wonderful place to spend quality time for children and grownups alike.
8. Kargil Stupa - A memorial to Indian army soldiers from North Karnataka who were killed at Kargil. The memorial is located just across District Collector's office.
9. Karnataka College Dharwad - this iconic red colored building was constructed during the pre-independence times, it was meant to house Indian Railways offices. The railway office was shifted to Hubli for better feasibility and the building was used as army barracks before converting it into a college.
10. Karnataka University Dharwad - Established in 1950, KUD is the one of oldest universities of India. Within the campus are several interesting places; the Botanical Garden, History and Geology museums.
11. Kelageri Kere - is the biggest lake of Dharwad with 100+ year history. Migratory water birds camp at Kelgeri lake between November and April. Early morning is the best time to see them feeding.
12. Shirdi Sai Baba temple off Kelageri road. This is the biggest Sai temple in Dharwad city.
13. Kittur Chennamma Park - named in memory of the warrior queen of Kittur who fought against the British army to retain freedom of her late husband's kingdom. Within the park is a memorial to John Thackeray the British collector who was slain by Chennamma during the rebellion at Kittur.
14. Muruga Matta - a Lingayath monastery with a long history. The Matha supports school and college going boys from simple surrounding villages by providing them boarding & lodging within the monastery campus.
15. Nuggikeri Hanuman Mandir - Nuggikeri lake is situated in a valley on the city outskirts off Dharwad-Kalghatgi road. On the lake bank is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. The lake creates a relaxing atmosphere during sunset. This popular temple attracts hundreds of people on Saturdays and festival days.
16. Prashantadhama ~ Durgadevi temple - a temple complex situated within the police headquarters campus right next to Sadankeri.
17. Ramakrishna Ashram - the Dharwad chapter of Ramakrishna Mission is situated at Channabasaveshwara Nagar.
18. Remains of Dharwad fort - two gateways with ancient wooden doors is what's remaining of the fort. 
19. Sadhankeri - this little pond is known for its landscaped gardens, boating and musical fountain. The garden is open from dawn to 8 PM. Musical fountain show happens on Saturdays, Sundays and government holidays.
20. Sanjeevini Park - is a hill garden created by Karnataka Forest Department about 8 kms on Dharwad-Hubli road.
21. Someshawara Gudi - This XII century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva has a peaceful ambiance. The 2½' tall black stone sculpture of Basavanna (Nandi) is a beauty not to be missed.
22. Shalmala Ugamasthala - About half a kilometer from Someswara Gudi is the birth place of river Shalmala. Though Shalmala begins here, the stream goes underground within a hundred meters, i.e. Shalmala is a Guptagamini and surfaces somewhere in the jungles of western ghats. On its banks are historical places such as Shasralinga and Sonda fort.
23. Tapovan - This is the ashram established by Shri. Kumaraswamiji- a yogi, a philosopher, a humanist, a writer and a social reformer. The ashram's gardens creates a peaceful ambiance.
24. Teachers Training Institute - constructed during the pre-independence times, the group of red buildings was meant to house Indian Railways offices. The main building's twin tower is an architectural beauty.
25. Ulavi Basaveshwara Gudi - this temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is situated on a hillock, is probably the highest point of Dharwad. The temple is small but has lot of open space and greenery around it.
26. University of Agricultural Sciences - Established in 1986 USA, Dharwad is a major center for agricultural research & education.
27. Cave temple of Amminabaavi - Amminabavi is a village off Dharwad-Saundatti road known for its large well and Jain Basti. On the village outskirts, over a wide mound is a graveyard within which is a man-made cave temple. The cave was hacked single handed by an ascetic living in the graveyard.
28. Paarshvanaath Basti, Amminabhavi - This is one of the historic Jain Bastis in Dharwad district. The deity is ancient and there's a small collection of ancient stone sculptures.
29. Neera Sagar - is the large man-made lake about 20 km off Dharwad-Kalghatgi road. The check dam here impounds Bedthi Halla creating a nice reservoir. Water from this lake is supplied to Hubli city and also used for agricultural purpose.
30. Banashankari Devasthana, Amargol - this XII century temple built during Kalyana Chalukyan rule is situated in the village of Amargol about 12 km on Dharwad-Hubli road.
31. Sri Chandramouleshwara Devasthana, Unkal - this XII century temple built during Chalukyan rule is situated in Unkal village, one of the villages merged into Hubli city. In this temple, one of the deities is Chaturmukha Linga, a rare form of Shivalinga.
32. Mini Lalbagh - a public garden with a glass house similar to Bangalore's Lalbagh.
33. Nrupatunga Betta - Hubli is one city which has a lake and a hillock. Like Unkal lake and village, Nrupatunga hill gradually merged into the fast growing Hubli city. The hillock is situated on north-west side of Hubli city. Its a popular place for morning walks.
34. Shirdi Sai Baba temples, Hubballi - Hubli city has two temples dedicated to Shirdi Sai Baba. While one is opposite Idgah Maidan near Kitturu Chennamma circle, the other temple is on the slopes of Nrupatunga Betta.
35. Unkal Kere - As you approach Hubli from Dharwad side, you pass by Unkal lake. At the lake center is a statue of Swami Vivekananda and on its shore is a public garden. Boating is a popular form of entertainment here.
36. Ulavi Channabasaveshwara temple, Unkal - a temple dedicated to Channabasaveshwara, nephew of Jagadguru Basaveshwara. This ancient temple is situated on the Unkal lake shore, when the lake fills to its brim, the water level reaches the temple floor.
37. Mooru Savira Mata - This is a Lingayath monastery said to be established in XII Century by Jagadguru Basaveshwara's nephew Channabasaveshwara. After escaping from Kalyana, a group of Shivasharanas led by Channabasaveshwara camped here, established this Matha and moved into the jungles of Ulavi.
38. Siddharooda Mata - this Lingayath monastery was established by Shri Siddharudha Swami who lived between March 1836 and August 1929. His mortal remains are enshrined here. This is a popular religious place for people of North Karnataka.
39. Sri Bhavani Shankar & Narayana Devastana, Old Hubballi - A Trikutachala Devastana built during the Chalukyan times. This temple has stood the test of time, its in a good condition. Rituals are performed everyday and open to public. 
40. Railway Museum - Inaugurated in Aug 2020, this is the second railway museum in Karnataka. The museum is a collection of railway artifacts and a toy train. The museum is situated on Hubballi-Gadag highway, about a kilometer from the railway underpass.
41. Navagraha Theertha, Varur - this is a Jain shrine dedicated to nine cosmic bodies. At this center is a 61' statue of Bhagavan Parshwanath and statues of eight other Tirthankara.
42. Adargunchi Doddappa and Budarsinghi Hanumappa temples - unique temples with ancient idols of Adargunchi and Budarsinghi villages off Hubli-Bangalore national highway. The villages are about 10 km from Hubli,
43. Sri Shambulingesvara Devasthana, Kundgol - a Chalukyan temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple is known for its turned and mirror polished pillars.
44. Basavanna Devastana, Tambur - This is a beautiful temple dedicated to Basavanna built during Chalukyan times. The temple is situated at Tamboor village in Devikoppa forests close to Kalghatgi town. Also close to the village is a waterbody names Tamboor Kere.
45. Sri Madiwaleshwara Matha, Garag - a Lingayath monastery established by Sri Madiwaleshwara a contemporary of Kittur Chennamma, Sishunala Sharief, Siddaroodaswami and Nagalingaswami of Navalgund. He was found as an infant in a banana plantation near Kittur and adopted by Mallasarja Desai and Chennamma. On attaining teenage he leaves home and enters monkhood. He is said to have traveled to Nepal two times, stayed at Nepal king's palace as a guest. Finally he establishes a monastery on a piece of land donated by Hangarki Desai. The monastery is situated next to Tuprihalla which flows between Hangarki and Garag.
46. Khadi Gramudyoga Kendra, Garag - this is one of the two centers in India where fabric for the Indian national flag is officially produced. Garag is about 18 km northwest of Dharwad.
47. Jain Basadi, Garag - the Jain temple's history goes back several centuries, probably to Chalukyan times.
48. Veerabhadreshwara Gudi, Tadakod - is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, probably built 600 years ago. Tadkod is a small village about 5 kms from Garag.
49. Rangathaswami Gudi, Devarahubballi - an ancient shrine dedicated to Lord Rangantha. The idol, a beautiful stone sculpture seems 500 to 600 years old.
50. Amruteshwara Devasthana, Annigeri - Amruteshwara temple was built in the XI Century CE by Kalyani Chalukyan rulers. The temple built of soapstone has 76 pillars, and its walls are covered with sculptures of characters from Hindu legends. It is said that Amruteshwara temple was to be the prototype for Mahadeva temple of Itagi village in Koppal district. Besides, Amruteshwara, there are six other ancient temples in Annigeri which could be of interest to tourists.
51. Ajata Nagalingaswami Mata, Navalgund - a Lingayath Matha popular for its mysterious book. A hole runs through the pages of the book, which is gradually closing year after year. The book is kept for public display once a month.
52. Sri Kalmeshwara Gudi, Kamadhenu - this is a temple with its history going back to Chalukyan times which means it is about 800 to 900 years old.

You may also want to learn about other districts of Karnataka-

1. Bagalkot district
2. Ballari district
3. Belagavi district
4. Bidar district
5. Bijapur district
6. Davangere district
7. Chitradurga district
8. Gadag district
9. Gulbarga district
10. Haveri district
11. Kolar district
12. Koppal district
13. Raichur district
14. Tumkur district
15. Vijayanagara district
16. Yadgiri district

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Chaukandi - Dargah of Hadrat Khalimullahullah

September 3, 2018

We started our day with a short visit to Narasimha Jhira, Pushpa was ready to wade through water in the tunnel but the temple was crowded, at least 30 people in the queue. We took pictures and made a short video from the outside and left. We drove on Bidar city ring-road and turned right towards Ashtoor village. A kilometer before Bahamani tombs of Ashtur, on the left hand side is Dargah of Hadrat Khalimullahullah commonly known as Chaukandi which means four storeys. Chaukandi is a octagonal shaped white colored structure, its design is truly unique. Its a protected monument.

Situated away from settlement this place is peaceful. In fact local people come here to spend time peacefully. Neem and Tamarind trees add to the ambiance.

This white colored building is a screen to the main structure. Its a belief that beautiful structures should have a screen to protect it from evil eyes ~ ketta drishti. Bijapur's Gol Gumbaz also has a screen like this locally known as Naqquar Khana. The brown colored two-storey building is a mosque. Besides this is another mosque inside.

There's Chaukandi as seen through the inner arch of the screen. Its a magnificent structure with a classy color scheme. Originally it was white octagonal structure, the brown colored structure with dome was added later. As we entered the inner portion, a saw a man.. I felt it was the same man I'd met in Jan-2011.. Kalil Shah Bahamani who claimed to be a descendant of Bahamani dynasty. He offers to show us around.

The white exterior is the outer wall, approximately 10' thick, it encloses another octagonal structure which in turn houses the tomb. On the exterior its designed to look like a two-storey building but in real its a four-storey building.

Looking back towards the gateway we just passed through. On either sides of the passage are raised platforms, large enough to accommodate 60 to 70 people.

This is another mosque, simple elegant structure.

The side view of Chaukandi. The octagon will fit into a circle 88' diameter. Its opposite parallel sides are 80' apart and its height is approximately is 80'. This is said to be built during the first half of XV century CE.

As I was photographing the structure, Pushpa spotted a couple of owls in a niche high above the ground. That was a wonderful catch. Grey feathered owls sitting cozily up there, possibly baby owls inside. She remarked they look like us two :)

Our guide pointed out to Arabic / Persian texts above door frames, he said they were of great importance. There are many such slabs both outside and inside walls here. Beautiful sculptures they are. Notice the floral on the lower portion. The three lotus' design is similar to the ones found in Hindu temples, like the ones seen at Chalukyan temples.

Sky view from the gap between inner and outer structures. Each of these arches are 30' high.

On the floor level. This is the front side of the building, on the left side is the main entrance and on the right side is the main door to the tomb. The tombs seen here are of Hadrat Khalimullahullah's family members.

This is the tomb of Hadrat Khalimullahullah. This is a shrine for local people who believe in powers of this Dargah. Visitors offer oil and agarbathi. A single oil lamp burns throughout the day. Smoke rising up from the lit up agarbathi. Visitors are patted with a bunch of peacock feathers, kind of blessings. The doors seen here are also ancient, they have the brass knobs which seems original.

We go back outside and around the building. A close look at the black granite outlines. At the base of this sculpted black column is a brown niche which was originally filled up. Vandals have pried out the filling.

Spirals rising up above.. like coil springs.

This is the rear face. Notice the spiral along the arch outline. Truly a result of superb designing, planning and execution.

This is the western face. Besides the arches and geometric designs this face has floral designs as well. Notice the mural at the arch crest.

Opposite the western face is this small structure, not sure if its incomplete or as designed. The arches are quite low, about 3' high. Two arches are open while the rest were closed with mesh screen. Inside there are several tombs. Though small, its has very detailed artwork.

A closer look at the art. Amazing isn't it.

The Chaukandi has its own well too. The open well has a flight of steps descending into it. Such wells are commonly found at temples and known as Kalyani. This raises a question mark if a Hindu shrine exists close by or at the very spot where the tomb stands.

Chaukandi as seen from the open-well. The place has a great ambiance, you can sit here for hours, enjoy the silence and fresh air.

About 200 meters from Chaukandi is another open-well named as Pari Bowli meaning Faiies' Well. You normally see circular or square shaped shafts but Pari Bowli is octagonal. The water is fresh, can be consumed as is.. of course its upto one's confidence. I had a mouthful :)

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