sights from Bali

The idea of this post emanated from Clive Ames' travels across Bali, a province of Indonesia. I've known Clive since Jan 2019 when I was contacted for information about Badami, Pattadakal & Aihole. Since then we are in touch by email and Whatsapp. We share a lot of stuff.. his travels, my travels, my bicycle rides and pictures of creatures of Nature. I've seen a bit of Bali through Clive's eyes, such a lovely place it is. Besides seeing Bali, I also learnt a bit about it's unique culture. One aspect of Balinese culture that appealed to me most is the day of silence- Nyepi. The day marks the Saka New Year on which everything shuts down- no lights, no travel, and no entertainment. Everyone must stay indoors including tourists. It's a time for fasting, peace and inward thinking. Even though Indonesia is a Muslim majority country with a miniscule Hindu population, it's rooted in Hindu culture. Indonesia's national emblem is Garuda Pancasila, a golden Garuda with a shield having five emblems representing the five principals of Indonesian ideology.

Speaking of Bali province is an island filled with volcanic mountains, valleys and a bit of plains. With it's wooded mountain slopes and terrace farming Bali is a photographers' and trekkers' paradise. Then there's the historical part- ancient Hindu temples and XIX Century Dutch buildings. Last but the least, ancient Hindu traditions are active to this day.. the captivating rituals and ceremonies many of which are open to the public viewing.

Here are a few pictures shot by Clive starting with Mount Batur, one of the active volcanoes of Bali, as seen from Kintamani town. The volcano last erupted in 1963. The dark patches on the slopes are lava fields of that time.

Bali  has thirteen mountains of which two are active volcanoes- Mount Agung and Mount Batur. Mount Agung also happens to be the tallest. Info stated in the below table has been sourced from Bali.com. The website is a great place to know Bali from a tourist perspective.

Mounts of Bali
Mount	Height (m)	Can be hiked	Volcano status
Agung	3148	Yes	Active
Batukaru	2276	Yes	Dormant
Abang	2151	Yes	Dormant
Catur	2096	Yes	Dormant
Sengayang	2087	No	Dormant
Pohen	2063	Yes	Dormant
Lesung	1865	Yes	Dormant
Adeng	1826	No	Dormant
Patas	1780	Yes	Dormant
Batur	1717	Yes	Active
Merbuk	1384	No	Dormant
Musi	1350	No	Dormant
Lempuyang	1058	Yes	Dormant

Here's another view which has Mount Batur, Lake Batur and Mount Agung. So much wilderness.

That's Mount Agung the tallest peak of Bali literally kissing the skies.

Of the thirteen mountains, nine of them are trek-friendly. Sunrise trekking is very popular activity here. Imagine trekking Agung and Batur and reaching their caldera. What an experience that would be!

Between steep slope of Mount Agung and waters of Lake Batur is a village called Trunyan home of the indigenous Bali Aga people.

I guess this view of Agung peak is from another location, probably on the way to a resort situated on the hill seen in the foreground. 

Nestled in those hills are a number of ancient monuments of which Pura Kehen is the most popular. It's situated in Cempega in Bangli Regency. The temple's history dates back to the IX Century CE however it got it's name Pura Kehen in the XIII Century during the Bangli Kingdom period. It is said that this temple was a venue for oath taking ceremonies for the royal officials.

Pura Kehen has three sections i.e. an outer courtyard (Nista Mandal), a central courtyard (Madya Mandal) and an inner courtyard. Most temples of Bali share this format. What we are seeing is the outer 

That's Mrs. Ames posing at the base of the staircase. The orange garment is called sarong, it's worn to cover the legs. Visitors are also expected to wear a sash on their shoulders. Visitors are also expected to exercise restraint inside temple premises, like not touching idols, trees and any other object considered sacred.

A pair of Makara flank the base of the staircase. Makara is a mythical sea creature which seems like a combination of elephant, crocodile and fish are posted at entrances to keep evil spirits away. Makara is somewhat like Kirtimukha seen in Indian temples.

The entrance tower as seen from Madya Mandal. On the right hand side we have a small walled enclosure with small sculptures in it.

The inside of the enclosure. I don't know what these idols depict except for the farthest one which seems like a Shiva Linga. Wondering is this enclosure originally had an idol of Nandi too. Those checkered clothes have some significance, must be a local custom.

In the background is a stepped gateway which connects the middle courtyard with the innermost section. The steps are flanked by towering structures which is akin to waist-high balustrades seen in temples of southern India.

Another view of the towering structures. It looks like a Shikhara was split into two and then separated to create a passage. That's just my imagination.

The gateway is guarded by six Dwarapala, the gatekeepers. Again the function of Dwarapala is to keep out negative energies.

This shrine with a 11-tier pyramidal Shikhara seems to be the chief temple of this complex. This structure is known as Meru tower. The tower, like any other Hindu temple tower, is designed to draw cosmic energy into the sanctum.

I'm assuming the sanctum is enclosed by these richly decorated walls. Or possible the sanctum is housed inside with a circumambulatory. At shrine can be accessed by climbing up the seven-stepped staircase. Usually visitors are not allowed into the sanctum, entry is reserved for priests. A lot of sculptures on the pedestal. At every corner there's a winged female idol. Looks like all these idols are guards of the shrine.

Another view of the shrine. At the base of the steps are three mythical creatures. They are so fascinating in photographs itself, can't imagine seeing them for real. In the background are minor shrines, their Shikhara are three-tiered.

The head called as Kala or Bhoma seems to a combination of lion, pig and human features. Its popping eyes and bared teeth depict rage like Ugranarasimha, the enraged form of Narasimha.

The spacious courtyard has plenty of greenery too. The largest tree of this complex is Banyan tree which is said to be 400 years old. Then there are coconut palms and frangipani trees. In the below picture are two frangipanis on which are ferns. The presence of ferns is an indication of continuous rains. Also the lichen and moss coated stones here is an indicator of consistent rainfall.

This tiled roof mantapa seems like a shelter for ceremonial palanquins.

Here we have a stone sculpture of Garuda the eagle, Vishnu's mount. Vishnu is one of the Trimurti, the other two are Brahma and Shiva. In the Hindu traditions, Brahma is the creator; Vishnu is the protector; and Shiva is the destroyer. Garuda is identifiable by its wings. Feathers in the wings are beautifully sculpted. The sculptor has thrown in a lot of imagination.. fangs in the mouth and limbs like a human being. Garuda is decorated with elegant jewelry too. Truly an amazing artwork.

This multi-tiered structure seems to be an open shrine. It's called as pelinggih. If you study the base, it's a mythical creature, a combination of tortoise, lion and human features. It's carrying the shrine on its back. Flanking its head is a pair of sculptures similar to the one present at the chief shrine. This richly decorated structure must be of significance. It seems to be situated opposite another shrine. Probably this is like Stambha (pillar) seen in Indian temples. Stambha have specific names like Vijaya Stanbha (victory pillar). Deepa Stambha (lamp tower), and Garuda Stambha. If you think of Ellora Kailasanatha Mandir, there's a heavy-looking column. This pelinggih here and Stambha there could have a similar function.

Besides stone sculptures, there are some wooden sculptures too. The red-gold combination signifies sacred qualities.

Lastly we have this elaborately decorated wooden palanquin used for ritualistic processions during certain festivals. Those dragons create a feeling that they are pulling the sedan. The artwork seems so much like Buddhist art. For that matter, even the stone sculptures seen in this complex has a Buddhist influence. Let me say this here- personally I see Shaivism, Vaishnavism, Buddhism, Sikhism, Jainism and many other sects as branches of one giant tree called Hinduism.

After having seen Clive-shot photos closely and read about Bali culture, I'm tempted to make a trip there. I think Indian tourists, particularly Hindu people must consider Bali and Cambodia if and when they think of an overseas holiday. Bali offers almost everything a nature-loving tourist wants- greenery, treks, amazing resorts, and beaches. For the fun-loving types, Bali offers its own food & drinks and night-life. Overall, it's definitely a great holiday destination.

Thank you, Clive.

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Shivasharanara Aikysthalagala Nakshe

A Shivasharana is a devotee of Shiva who's maxim was  surrender to Shiva, inner-purity and simple living. The Shivasharana revolution of XII Century CE led by eminent Shivasharana like Akka Mahadevi, Allama Prabhu and Basavanna was aimed at achieving social equality, casteless society and devotion through Vachana Sahithya. Vachanas are poetry with profound message in simple language composed by Shivasharana. The epicenter of Shivasharana revolution was Kalyana the capital of Bijjala's kingdom, present day Basava Kalyana in Bidar district. Every revolution faces resistance, and Shivasharanas too had to face the ire of powerful upper caste leaders which eventually caused the king to turn against the revolution. The conflict exploded after Bijjala's assassination. The Shivasharanas were expelled from the kingdom, pursued by army they fled in all directions, majority went southwards. Shivasharanas though peaceful at heart were fighters when it came to self defense, more so to protect Vachana Sahitya. Many of the Shivasharanas were martyred but their legacy was kept alive by the followers. Their places have burial have become religious places. To this day people visit Shivasharanas Aikyasthala as a mark of respect to their contribution and to get inspired by their philosophy.

Basavanna's Aikya Mantapa | Akka Nagamma's Aikya Mantapa
Gangambike Aikyasthala | idol of Neelambike

Here's a map which has pins marking locations of Aikyasthalas. The map (and the list below) will be updated as and when a discovery is made. In case readers know of Aikyasthala not marked in this map, please do share the info in comment section. Your info will be added to the map.

You can also view the map with list of sites by visiting opening this link: Shivasharanara Aikysthalagala Nakshe.

The Shivasharana Aikyasthala marked in the above map are listed below. Click on linked to read details of that place.

1. Ajaganna at Lakkundi.
2. Akka Mahadevi the Shivasharane who considered Shiva as her husband attained Aikya near Srisailam.
3. Akka Nagamma, the elder sister of Basavanna at a place called Yenne Hole near present day Tarikere town.
4. Allama Prabhu at a place called Kadali Vanam which too is near Srisailam.
5. Basaveshwara at Aikya Mantapa at Kudala Sangama at the confluence of rivers Malaprabha and Krishna.
6. Channabasaveshwara, son of Akka Nagamma and nephew of Basaveshwara at Ulavi in the western ghat jungles.
7. Dohara Kakkayya at Kakkeri near Alnavar.
8. Gangambike, wife of Basaveshwara on the bank of river Malaprabha near Kadrolli.
9. Madiwala Machayya a washerman by profession at Karimani near Murgod.
10. Neelambike also wife of Basaveshwara on the bank of river Krishna near the village Tangadgi.
11. Siddarameshwara of Sonnaligi in present day Solapur at Godekere near KB Cross (between Nittur and Tiptur).

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Maricha's end

Everyone who knows Ramayana is aware of Sita's abduction. The story in which Lanka king Ravana hatches a plot to abduct Sita. Ravana wanted his maternal uncle Maricha to take the form of a deer to lure Rama away from Sita for a while during which Ravana would carry out his evil deed of nabbing Sita. Aware of Rama's prowess, Maricha tries to dissuade Ravana but the latter unleashes his wrath to which the former surrenders. However, in the back Maricha's mind is a consolation that his end would be in Rama's hand. On the appointed day, Maricha assumes the form of an outlandishly beautiful deer and appears near Rama, Sita & Lakshmana's dwelling in Panchavati forest. The golden deer with silver spots mesmerized Sita evoking an irresistible urge to possess it. She begs, pleads and manipulates the unwilling Rama to give in. Lakshmana sensing a vile force in the deer tries to dissuade Rama but fails. Rama commands Lakshmana to guard Sita while he goes after the deer. Once out of sight, Rama's arrow hits Maricha reveals his true form, and cries out for help taking Sita and Lakshmana's names mimicking Rama's voice before dying. Rama realizes the trickery but it's a bit late.

Meanwhile at the hut, hearing the impersonated cries, Sita becomes uncontrollable and forces Lakshmana to rescue Rama. Lakshmana draws three lines around their hut and warns Sita not to cross-over under any circumstance and goes in search of Rama. As soon as Lakshmana leaves, Ravana appears at the hut in the form of an ascetic seeking alms. In our culture, one seeking alms is never to be sent empty hand. Sita noticing the ascetic steps out of the hut with a bowl of fruits then remembers Lakshmana's warning. Seeing Sita hesitate Ravana cunningly manipulates Sita with his words to which Sita yields. The second Sita steps across Lakshman-Rekha, Ravana reveals his real form, grabs hold of the terrified Sita and flees Panchavati.

Now, when we look back at the emotional failures in this story, there are lessons to be learnt.

sculpture of Maricha's end at Vijaya Vittala Devastana

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Baobab of Fadnavis Wada

Another discovery by my friend Vijay Menon. This time the Baobab's at Fadnavis Waada, Wai, Satara district.

This is one of the few discoveries in which Baobab fruit is seen. The fruit has high nutritious content and can be preserved for a long time. Apart from the fruit, it's leaves and bark have herbal properties and used for various health conditions.

Built in the XVIII Century, Fadnavis Wada is a historical monument. I'm quoting it's description verbatim from Nana Fadnavis Wada website: This palace (wada) at village Menavli was constructed by Rajamanya Rajashri Nana Faadnavis in 1770s and is situated on the banks of Krishna River. The 250+ year old wada structure comprises of the main stone plinth above which rises the two storeyed wooden framed structures with walls made of bricks and dried mud, hay and lime mortar. The wada has some excellent specimens of art in the form of well-carved wooden ceilings, and cypress pillars with cusped arches and Maratha style wall paintings, that are adorned with faunal and floral motifs.

Baobab originates from the African continent. Between the XIV and XVII Centuries CE, groups of Sufi ascetics travelled to the Indian subcontinent carrying Baobab seeds & saplings. The Sufis planted them wherever they camped which was usually for months at stretch. Baobab, though a rare tree in our country, thousands of trees are said to have survived in the western parts i.e. Goa, Maharashtra, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh. Baobabs made their way interior regions i.e. the Deccan plateau and even down south to Tamil Nadu. For the reader's benefit, below is a list of known Baobab trees of India-

1. Hilltop Nightclub, Vagator, Goa
2. Cabo Raj Bhavan, Dona Paula, Goa
3. Quepem, Goa
4. Bamboo Motels, Goa
5. next to Yogapur mosque, Bijapur
6. Mahalakshmi Gudi premises, Martur, Kalburgi district
7. Dodda Hunashe Matha, Savanur, Karnataka
8. Near the aquarium in Lalbagh Botanical Garden, Bengaluru
9. on the outskirts of Devadurga, Raichur district, Karnataka
10. Purana Qilla, Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telangana
11. Attapur, Hyderabad
12. Vansthalipuram, Hyderabad, Telangana
13. near Chappel Road, Hyderabad, Telangana
14. Ranganath temple at Nanakramguda, Hyderabad, Telangana
15. Shivalaya on Balachandruni Guttalu, Nalagonda, Telangana
16. Uppal in Chengicherla Reserve Forests, Hyderabad, Telangana
17. Nellore, Andhrapradesh
18. Theosophist Society Gardens, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
19. The American College campus, Madurai, TN
20. Chinmaya Vidyalaya's campus at Ilanthope, Rajapalayam, TN
21. Mangaliawas near Ajmer, Rajasthan
22. Vadodara, Gujarat
23. Dayapur, Gujarat
24. Kutch, Gujarat
25. Bhanagar, Gujarat
26. Baroda, Gujarat
27. Victoria Garden, Sukharamnagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat
28. Mulund, Mumbai, Maharashtra
29. Byculla zoo, Mumbai, Maharashtra
30. Tilak road and Ghokale road, Pune, Maharastra
31. near Aurangabad, Maharashtra
32. inside Shirala fort, Maharashtra
33. Revdanda-Murud road near Korlai, Maharastra
34. opposite Mandvi Darwaza at Vasai Fort, Maharastra
35. Nana Fadnavis Wada premises, Menawali, Maharashtra
36. Mandavgad or Mandu, Madhya Pradesh
37. Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park, Bihar
38. Purani Jhunsi, Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh

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story of Kirtimukha

Kirtimukha at Ikkeri Aghoreshwara Devastana

Even after hundreds of temple visits Kirtimukha remained mysterious apart from the assumption that it's there to cast off evil eyes. Those ferocious faces popping eyes are bound to keep evil-eyes. However, the question of how it came into being stayed on.

Ikkeri Aghoreshwara Devastana

The mystery was addressed to an extent by a YouTube short video titled Kirtimukha: the glorious face at the temple gate in which Sadhguru (Jaggi Vasudev) narrates a story which goes like this:

Every Indian temple there is a face which is eating up its own arms which is called as the Kirtimukha. It once happened a certain Yogi too full of himself came and saw Shiva simply sitting there and he looked at him and provoked him with abuse. Shiva did not respond. Then he physically poked him and said you're simply sitting there because you're afraid of me. This went beyond point of irritation. So Shiva plucked a hair from his head and made a demon out of it. And he told the demon "Eat this Yogi. Eat him up. He should not be walking this planet."

The demon grew up within minutes and became huge and started chasing the yogi. Yogi was terrified. Then of course he came and fell at Shiva's feet and please save me. Don't let this demon eat me. Then Shiva immediately changed his mind and said "okay just leave him let him go." Then the yogi went away terrified.

Then the demon was standing there burning with hunger because he was created just to eat. So he said, "What am I supposed to do?" Shiva was already becoming still. He said, "You eat yourself." And then before Shiva could turn around and look at him, he started eating himself up. When he looked at him, everything of his body was gone. Only his face and two arms were left. So he looked at this "how quickly you ate yourself up. Only the face is left. You are the most glorious face. You are above all gods." 

It is from this that even today in almost every Indian temple there is a face which is eating up its own arms which is called as the Kirtimukha the glorious face.

Here's another example, a Kirtimukha from Bhimeshwara Devastana, Neelagunda.

Neelagunda Bhimeshwara Devastana

And a series of Kirtimukha at Aghoreshwara Devastana, Ikkeri where one tier of the temple base is dedicated to the glorious face.

Sadhguru's story has spiked my interest. During my future visits to temples, I'll surely pay more attention to Kirtimukha, it's many forms created by the ancient sculptures of our land.

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