Ulavi is one of the remotest shrines. Nestled deep inside the Western ghats, the roads leading to Ulavi traverse over hills, pass through valleys, go across streams and rivers. The journeys are interesting as long as one is okay being moved around in a closed vehicle. I've visited Ulavi three times earlier- first to attend a wedding, second time was a solo drive on humid day which eventually turned into a rainy afternoon, and the third time was with my brother and niece. We stayed overnight and the following morning we visited two caves - Pachalinga Gavi and Aakal Gavi. There are many more caves and ancient temples around Ulavi but one needs time and energy to visit them. I had hopes of seeing few during my future visits.
August 26, 2020
This visit was planned two days ahead, as soon as we saw a break in the rainfall. We- uncle, aunt, Pushpa and I- left Dharwad around 7-45 AM, despite heavy rains the roads were okay for a small car. We passed through Haliyal and Dandeli. Just across river Kali, we stopped to fill the thermos with tea as we had planned to stop at Syntheri rocks for breakfast. We were the only four at Syntheri rocks parking lot where we had bread, cheese, Kemp-chutnee, Pundiplaya, a sweet and tea. We descended into the valley for a look at the monolith and river Kaneri. The river was gushing fiercely through the rocks, kicking up a light mist. The new thing here was the open air museum of rock specimens along the stairs descending into the valley. However, we couldn't stay long because of sultry conditions. We left the spot and resumed our journey towards Ulavi.
It was cloudy and we expected rains but surprisingly it was a dry day. No surprises in the jungle like fallen trees or bamboo. Soon we reached the arch of Ulavi Channabasaveshwara Gudi. From here the temple is about 12 km. This is a junction of three roads- roads going towards Ulavi, Dandeli and Joida.
It was around noon when reached the temple. Being midweek, there weren't too many people. This is the gateway of Channabasaveshwara Gudi. The gateway is crowned by a mantap with a life size idol of Channabasaveshwara.
Channabasaveshwara, nephew of Jagatjyoti Basaveshwara, was one of the prominent Shivasharanas of Kalyana Kranti the social revolution of XII Century. Kalyana was the capital of Kalachuri king Bijjala's capital. Due to misplaced trust the Shivasharanas were persecuted which results in mass exodus. The Shivasharanas scatter in three groups going in different directions, two of which travel south and eventually reach Ulavi which was a part of Kadamba kingdom. Do read the Kannada version of the story of Shivasharanas exodus from Kalyana by clicking on this link.
The Shivasharanas settle here. Their leader Channabasaveshwara attains Samadhi and his tomb becomes a shrine for his followers. A temple is built over the shrine. With time Ulavi becomes popular attracting people from all over north Karnataka. There are people who visit Ulavi once a year at least - especially to attend the annual fair which takes place in Jan or Feb. Besides buses and cars, people travel by foot, bicycles, even bullock carts. The pilgrims make sure they enjoy the journey and the destination as well.
The temple obviously has undergone lot of changes over the centuries. Today we have here a cement and steel structure in the traditional design. The Shikhara is a eight sided structure with a dome. Each of the eight faces has a niche in which idols depicting prominent Shivasharana's are placed. The two seen in this view are Abiger Choudayya and Madara Channayya. The next tier i.e. just below the dome has sixteen idols. Any one keenly observing the Shikhara will learn/remember the names of Shivasharanas who first strove to improve social conditions and then to protect Vachana Sahitya (collection of literature composed by Shivasharanas).
The temple has a spacious courtyard with few trees. This open space is a good place for visitors to relax or to pass time while waiting. Around the courtyard are lodging for the visitors' convenience.
The largest tree here is the Arali-Mara ~ Peepal tree. The tree is said to be 800+ years old. A lore says that a cradle used to be hung from the tree in which Shivasharanas attained Aikya as the cradle swung. In my opinion, this tree looks quite new. Probably a tree did exist here which was replaced by this new tree. At the base of the tree is a natural stone which resembles a bull.
Here's the stone which does resemble a bull in sitting position hence revered as Basava.
The temple as seen from the front. This is an east-facing temple but the premises is accessible to public only from the southern side. On the eastern side is a gateway which opens into the paddy fields. Next to the temple eastern gateway is a Kalyani ~ an open stepped well for pilgrims to bathe.
The temple interior. The Garbhagudi has a silver arch and all the idols are of silver. The sight of the main deity covered in colorful flowers is a pleasant sight, a sight to behold. The priests are very efficient here.. performed the rituals quickly yet gave ample time to see the deities.
This is the Kalyani. I wish people had a better civic sense.. instead of discarding soap wrappers in and around the tank, they could've put them into the trash cans. I pray that people start thinking of others as well rather than themselves - then the thought of "let the next person too have a nice experience" has a chance.
The temple southern gateway as seen from the inside. On the right are the newer rooms and administrative office. On the left is a small bus-stop like shelter where a series of pictures with captions are displayed. The series narrates the story of Shivasharanas journey from Kalyana to Ulavi. The pictures are originally paintings by S S Hiremath of Itagi village near Kittur.
Pilgrims need not worry about meals here because the temple provides free meals everyday between noon and 6-00 PM. It was around 12-45 when we finished our temple visit. It was a but too early for lunch as we had had late breakfast. So we decide to see a temple or two close by. It was a minute's climb to Anjaneya temple. This is the view of Channabasaveshwara temple from Anjaneya temple. The tree dominating the temple yard is the Aralimara. I wish the place was more photography friendly.
After 20 minutes or so we went back to the temple, headed straight to the lunch hall. Dasoha Prasada was Sajka, Shira, Palya, Anna-Saru and Limbi Uppinkayi. The items were simple yet so tasty. I would've gone for another helping if we had plans of staying back. I find it difficult to travel with a full tummy, so. After lunch we spent some time at the temple. Then the ladies wanted to pick up circular stone slabs to grind sandal paste. I had Pushpa buy a Vibhuti cake as well. Done with shopping we wanted to check out the other temples, few of which were inside the jungle. A temple worker advised us against venturing into the temple due to leeches. So we dropped the plan and visited the ones next to the main street i.e. Yetti Kayuva Basavana Gudi and Veerabhadra Gudi.
Veerabhadra Gudi is at the end of the street, next to a large water tank. The temple sits on a mound and has a nice view of paddy fields across the street. As we rested here, Pushpa spotted a swallowtail butterfly with blue wings. It was flying from flower to flower barely staying motionless for two or three seconds. I managed to get a few shots of the beautiful creature.
This is the water tank next to Veerabhadra Gudi. During my last visit, it was almost dry. This is where we had seen lot of dragonflies of different colors. Deepi had shot closeup shots with his camera.
The sight of paddy fields, many more months before harvest time. I guess these are mostly non-hybrid varieties and grown organically.
We decided to leave early so that we reach Dharwad before dark. Driving into the dark is one thing I avoid. I'm fine with driving into light i.e. start journeys early. We took Ulavi-Joida-Dandeli-Haliyal-Dharwad route. Near Joida, we picked up a bag of rice from a mill. The rice was the unpolished variety, tasted much better than the polished ones.
Another visit to Ulavi during dry season is pending to see the ancient temples.
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August 26, 2020
This visit was planned two days ahead, as soon as we saw a break in the rainfall. We- uncle, aunt, Pushpa and I- left Dharwad around 7-45 AM, despite heavy rains the roads were okay for a small car. We passed through Haliyal and Dandeli. Just across river Kali, we stopped to fill the thermos with tea as we had planned to stop at Syntheri rocks for breakfast. We were the only four at Syntheri rocks parking lot where we had bread, cheese, Kemp-chutnee, Pundiplaya, a sweet and tea. We descended into the valley for a look at the monolith and river Kaneri. The river was gushing fiercely through the rocks, kicking up a light mist. The new thing here was the open air museum of rock specimens along the stairs descending into the valley. However, we couldn't stay long because of sultry conditions. We left the spot and resumed our journey towards Ulavi.
It was cloudy and we expected rains but surprisingly it was a dry day. No surprises in the jungle like fallen trees or bamboo. Soon we reached the arch of Ulavi Channabasaveshwara Gudi. From here the temple is about 12 km. This is a junction of three roads- roads going towards Ulavi, Dandeli and Joida.
Another visit to Ulavi during dry season is pending to see the ancient temples.
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