Malaprabha at Pattadakal

During the last week of September 2023, Sridhar mentioned his plan of visiting Dharwad, a two-day visit. Over a couple of more phone calls, it became a 5-day visit with a tour of Chalukyan realm in between. I was glad that Sridhar extended his trip, he had not seen any of the Chalukyan monuments and I was happy that he would be seeing them with me.

Oct 5, 2023. We left Dharwad early morning morning, reached Badami by 8-30, had breakfast at a Udupi restaurant and we started the tour of rock-cut caves around 9 AM. After the caves, we headed to the north hill and visited all the monuments- lower Shivalaya, kings' meeting place, Upper Shivalaya, the granaries and a massive turret & fortifications. Then back at the base of the rock formation, we saw the artifacts collection in the museum. Having done with Badami, we headed towards Shivayogi Mandira where we had lunch- Anna Prasada. It was a satisfying meal of uppit and anna-saru. We got a chance to see the Vibhuti making unit within the campus. Then we rested for a while and headed towards Mahakoota. We parked and cooled off with a refreshing nimbu-soda. As we entered the temple complex, I was shocked to see the metal grills around the pond, it was eyesore but it was needed to keep out unruly crowds. Sridhar was very happy here since he could touch many of the Shivalinga idols. We spent almost an hour seeing the temples in detail. We left Mahakoota around 3-30 pm, headed towards Pattadakal which would be the last place for the day.

As we entered Pattadakal temple complex, we covered the first half, and as we came to the middle of the complex, I got an idea- take a break from the temples and see Malaprabha. Pattadakal is situated on the left bank of river Malaprabha. The river flows in the general direction of west but here it takes a ninety degree turn, flows northward for a short distance and then turns west again. In Hindu traditions, the place where a river flows northwards is considered holy. Based on this belief, such places usually have temples and remains a place of significance. It is said that Chalukyan princes' Patthabhishekha (coronation ceremony) took place at this place hence the name Pattadakal.

During one of the earlier visits here, I had come to see the river however I can't recall much. On the eastern side of the temple complex is a gateway which leads to the river, barely a hundred meters away. Treading on wet cool sand on a warm day is so relaxing! Then stepping into the gracefully flowing clear water took me to another level.. felt rejuvenating. We waded across ankle deep water, crossed the stream and stepped on to a tiny island. That's Sridhar with his Nikon. A group of kids were within talking distance and a group of ladies were washing upstream.

Waters flowing into the northerly direction. That's the bridge across Malaprabha connecting Pattadakal and Aihole. Water was shallow where I stood. However, beyond the rocks, most of the water flowed on the left side of the bed, water was deep there. After a less than normal rainfall, Malaprabha's water level is low. In the past I've seen this stream flowing bank to bank. In fact, in 2010 a heavy rainfall caused to heavy flooding. Pattadakal village and temple complex were in 8 to 9 feet water. Most places on Malaprabha banks were flooded including Shivayogi Mandir and a few temple complexes at Aihole.

Looking in the southerly direction. If we go along the river we'll pass by Bachingudda, one of the historical places and then reach Shivayogi Mandira.

Insect tracks in the riverbed. I have no clue as to what insect created it beautiful maze. Possibly it could be more than two of the same type of insect.

While we moved around in the water and chatted with the kids, a group of boys had crossed over from the opposite bank. One of the boys approached me with this sword asking for a picture.

That encouraged the other boys to join that boy for a group shot. After taking a few shots, I asked the eldest of them to take the sword and middle position. This bodybuilder may not be the sword owner but he seems to be the group leader. The guy with saffron stole must be his righthand man. The group left after exchanging mobile numbers with me to share the pictures.

Meanwhile the kids kept away from the gang. Looks like the kids were scared of the boys. Local politics in play. The eldest of the kids was trying to make something out of sand, or was he trying to catch fish. I'm not sure.

These three must be really thick friends. One of them had left his slippers on the island and playing a distance away. One of the other kids smiled at each other, unspoken mischief in play. The kid gave a light push and one of the slippers started floating away. The slipper owner had to chase his slipper to retrieve it. We had a good laugh as the slipper owner hurled abuses.

This is the gateway which connects the temple group and Malaprabha. To my knowledge, this is probably the largest gateway in Chalukyan monuments. There's an inscription on one of the blocks in one of the pillars. This gateway is proportional to the temples of this complex.

Right next to the gateway is this badly eroded idol of Nandi and the Ficus with long curvy arms.

View of the gateway from inside the complex. It was meant to be a grand structure, a befitting accompaniment to the grand temples here.

We spent another hour seeing the temples, marvelous sculptures on their exteriors and interiors as well. For some reason I've never been able to photograph these temples satisfactorily. During my previous visits, I faced one or the other issue.. once my camera battery ran out, on another occasion dark clouds formed and it rained. I have to plan another visit and make sure to be present here early morning, would like to shoot these temples in morning light since all these temples are east-facing.

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Varadamoola

Varadamoola is the birth place of river Varada. It is situated six kilometers south of Sagar town in Shivamoga district. The terrain is hilly and covered with jungle. The drive between Sagar and Varadamoola is full of turns and ups & downs. This pit is the source of Varada.

Just like Shalmala Ugamasthala near Dharwad, Varadamoola also has a tank where water from the source collects and then starts its journey.

Varada is a tributary of Tungabhadra. From here it flows past Chandragutti, Banavasi, intersects with NH47 midway between Haveri and Bankapur, flows past Havanur fort and merges with Tungabhadra close to Galaganatha in Haveri district.

 Having started our journey early morning, we were kind of tired and it was sunny. So we didn't really bother to explore all the temples here. As we climbed back the steps to the road, I noticed a strange looking stone sculpture. It looked like a Tamburi (Tampura). I went back to check out the sculpture closely.

This is the monolith sculpture measuring approximately six feet long. As you it is elliptical at one end, symmetrical and has two projections on either sides. With the divider, this device has two separate channels with four exit points. I feel this is some type of device used during religious rituals. I checked with my friends and received some responses-

• probably a music instrument which uses water
• looks like a feeder unit for large animals, elephants may before
• used to pour ghee into the fire during Homa 
• Most probably a device to allow Abhisheka water to flow outside 
• it perfectly looks like Morsing, a percussion instrument
• looks like Pani Peetha of a Shivalinga or rain catcher..

We must've spent 20 minutes here. During that time, we washed our face, neck and hands. The refreshing feeling lasted minutes, weather was too sultry to be comfortable.

Our plan was to reach Bhadravathi before sunset. I avoid driving into the night. so we left without delay. We drove non-stop, checked into a hotel and went out for a drive to MPM colony. I showed Pushpa our colony, our street, our house, even the factory entrance. Our day ended with snacks and tea at the open food court opposite Mary Immaculate Church.
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journey of a river - Malaprabha

Malaprabha is an important river in northern Karnataka; it is a tributary of river Krishna. Malaprabha originates at Kanakumbi village of Belgaum district; flows 300 km eastwards and merges with river Krishna at Kudala Sangama in Bagalkot district. Kanakumbi is situated at an altitude of 792 meters in Western Ghats and Kudala Sangama at 488 meters. Shri Mauli Devi temple marks the birthplace of Malaprabha at Kanakumbi; the place has a long history going back to prehistoric times and its a pilgrimage center.

Malaprabha's main tributaries are Bennihalla, Hirehalla and Tuprihalla - all these streams originate in Dharwad district. Malaprabha flows through a gorge near Saundatti and Munvalli villages in Belgaum district. A dam has been built across Malaprabha at Naviltheerth gorge and the reservoir is called Renukasagar. The reservoir's catchment area is approximately 11500 square kilometers. Renuka Sagar is the main source of water for Dharwad city. Water is also supplied to agricultural lands.

Along the path of Malaprabha are several places of historical and religious importance, some are listed below. Few places are not exactly on the river bank but in the vicinity.

• Shri Mauli Devi Gudi - Malaprabha's journey starts at Kankumbi
• Gangambike memorial - Jagatjyoti Basaveswara's wife Shivasharane Gangambike's Aikyasthala
• Shri Ashwatha Narasimha temple - a Vaishnava shrine with a long history
• Kadrolli - Shivasharanas of Kalyana clash with Bijjalas soldiers; Shivasharanas win
• Hunasikatti - Rudramuni Ashram, a Lingayath Matha
• Mukteshwara Devasthana - this is a Jaina shrine situated on a mound next to Malaprabha near Wakkund village.
• Naviltheerth dam and Renukasagar - post independence creation on a prehistoric site
• Saundatti fort - Ratta dynasty origin 
• Yellama Devasthana - Renukadevi temple near Saundatti
• Munvalli fort - a small fort with a beautiful temple for Hanuman
• Torgal fort - a citadel, a medieval power center
• Ramdurg fort - fort on a hillock
• Shabari Kolla - a shrine in a cleft in sandstone hills near Sureban
• Banashankari Devi temple - a shrine for Shakhambari dating back to Chalukyan times
• Shivayogi Mandir - a Lingayath monastery known for its collection of ancient Taalegari scripts
• Bachangudda - a Neolithic site and remains of two megalithic tombs
• Pattadakal - coronation center for princes of Badami Chalukyas
• Shankarlingeshwara Gudi - temple on a hillock and an ancient quarry
• Akkargal fort - a citadel on a hillock with prehistoric connections
• Maliyavvana Gudi - Chalukyan temple dedicated to Mahishamardini
• Aihole - prehistoric site and cradle of temple architecture
• Halae Layyagundi fort ruins
• Kudala Sangama - Malaprabha merges with the mighty Krishna

A folk-song on Malaprabha Nadi-

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Someswara Gudi and Shalmala Ugamastala, Dharwad

Someswaragudi is a XII century temple dedicated to Shiva Linga probably built during Chalukyan times.


Since the temple sees regular maintenance- repairs and whitewash -it does not seem ancient. Once you step across the threshold and doorway, you'll notice the interior is still stone finish.


The Swami who performs pooja told me that the Shivalingu is a natural formation and not man-made.


Basavanna with jewelry around it's neck.


The raised foreleg is unique ...I've not seen this in any of the other Basavanna.


One of the four columns in the Sabhamantapa.


As you see the shikhara is a stepped pyramid.


This smaller structure is a Anjaneya temple.


A Bilvapatri tree.


and a Banni tree.


The temple is situated in a shallow valley. These hills... the hill range marks the border between the Bayaluseeme (plains) and Malanadu (hilly region).


The lake is generally known as Someswara Keri. About 25% of the water surface is covered with lotus plants.


A stone's throw from Someswara Gudi is the birth place of river Shalmala. The river's starting point is in the small temple on the edge of the pond. The water which collects in the pond flows out for a short distance and goes underground.


Shivalingu and the temple caretaker.


People, with a belief to wash away their problems, come here to take bath in the holy water and offer prayers at the temple.


Like any other Shiva Temple, there's a Bilva Patri tree with couple of ancient sculptures.




The pond water overflows in a trickle, flows about 40 feet ...gets absorbed back into the earth.


Few years back this valley was a silent place, away from the hustle-bustle of the city. Like any other city, Dharwad is growing rapidly ...swallowing it's surrounding hills, lakes, farm land and villages. :(

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Mekedatu

This trip was sometime 2003 or 2004. This is river Cauvery before the Sangama, calm and smooth. Arkavathy merges into Cauvery and then flows Mekedatu and eventually into Tamil area.

My college time friend Satish and his family Shefali & Shobha. The 4km bus ride from Sangama to Mekedatu was a bumpy one. During my previous visits, I had walked both ways which makes it a 8 km trek on a rough path.

The mighty Cauvery flowing through a narrow gorge. The water level is slightly less than its level in my first visit which was in 1985 0r 1986. That trip was with my parents, brother and classmates from PES College. My father had taken some awesome pictures of Mekedatu with a Canon SLR. You could see them at Appaji's photography at Mekedatu.

This is the narrowest part of the river, the speed of water is supposed to be around 70kms per hour. This is where a goat jumped across the gorge while being pursued by some jungle cat and that tale behind the name of this spot Mekedatu - the goat's crossing.

This was a dry part of the year and hence less water. It would be great to see when there's more water.

This stretch is past the 'goat's crossing'. The surface appears calm again. I realized that the water surface was calm before & after the narrowest part the gorge. This is akin to the calm before the storm and calm after the storm.

On the way back, I had walked almost half the distance when the bus caught up with me.

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Appaji's photography at Mekedatu

This place called Mekedatu is a part of river Kaveri's path, near a village called Muttatti in southern Karnataka. My first visit to this place was in 1985 or 1986 when I was in PUC-1. One of my classmates had suggested this place and my father agreed to take our group there. Mother and brother too joined us, we had traveled in our goods carrier Alwyn Nissan Cabstar. We reached Kaveri-Arkavati Sangam around 10 AM, parked the truck and trekked 4 km to Mekedatu. The dirt path runs parallel to Kaveri, wooded hills on one side and river on the other side. Mekedatu means "goat's leap."

The mighty Kaveri squeezes through a gorge which is barely 20' wide at one point. Apparently at this point, a goat chased by a jungle cat leapt across the gorge to save itself. Hence this gorge is known as Mekedatu. The water sculpted rocks are a mesmerizing sight.

Water has sculpted wave patterns, bored huge holes and polished rocks to slippery finishes. This place is a photographer's dream. The group on the right is ours. Trying to recall the group members' names... Babu Prasad, Rajesh.. I think Bharath was there. I've forgotten who the remaining five or six were.

These pictures were shot in Appaji's Canon SLR camera. The first picture was shot by Deepak when Appaji was resting.

Kaveri flowing in a deathly silence through gorge. At the first glance, it seems peaceful. No, water flow is rapid with unseen whorls. The deep green shade indicated water is deep, really deep.

This is the mouth of the narrowest point. The glassy water surface suddenly loses its composure as it gets squeezed downwards.

This is the narrowest point in the gorge. Kaveri is a thousand feet wide at Sangam, when huge amounts of water squeeze through a narrow passage, it is under tremendous pressure and speed too. It is said that the surface speed of water is 70 kmph. Of course the speed could be more at a higher flow rate.

The rock projecting over the gorge. This is where the goat jumped to the other side. On the rock are four of us- I'm sitting, babu's waving at Appaji, Rajesh is taking a long stride not to miss the shot and the I'm not sure who the fourth guy is.

Milky white churning waters have sculpted these granite rocks over thousands of years.

The rock formations are intricate. Someone in the group was familiar with the place who led us down close the waters. There are painted signs not to enter water. However careless or overconfident people have been washed in the waters only to end up floating dead a few kilometers away. Thankfully, everyone in our group was responsible enough, Appaji didn't have to worry about our safety.

After this trip, I revisited this place three times with college friends. A decade later Appaji, Deepak & I, along with a few close relatives and colleagues visited another spectacular place- Savandurga the second largest monolithic hill of Asia. We had a great evening on the hill, slept inside a historical structure and woke up to wonderful morning sights. 

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